To Repair or Not to Repair… That is the Question
The big question: Repair Refrigerator or Replace Refrigerator
There are a few factors that should help you tip the repair refrigerator or replace refrigerator scales in a wise direction… Your refrigerator’s manufacturer or brand, the age of your refrigerator, and the symptoms of your refrigerator problem, greatly affect your best course of action.
In this article I will do my best to give some basic guidelines for the big refrigerator repair vs. replacement dilemma.
First some refrigerator repair vs. replacement background questions and information.
1. WHAT IS YOUR REFRIGERATOR’S PROBLEM?
You may not be able to pin down your refrigerator problem exactly, but we should be able to get a pretty good idea of your refrigerator problem with this [Troubleshooting Refrigerator Problems.] If you haven’t looked through the refrigerator troubleshooting pages yet, you should. If your problem is with the compressor or sealed system, save your repair money and put it toward the new refrigerator bill… unless your refrigerator is extremely expensive to replace.
1. HOW MUCH IS YOUR REFRIGERATOR WORTH?
Refrigerators have a large price range. If we are talking about a 400.00 appliance that is 10 years old that’s very different from a 2000.00 refrigerator that is 10 years old. Obviously a 100.00 to 200.00 repair on one would be wise on one and not so much the other. Fortunately, whether you are the 400.00 or 2000.00 refrigerator person you are at the right place.
3.HOW MUCH WILL A REFRIGERATOR REPAIR COST?
Well that’s a good question. Honestly a low-end refrigerator shouldn’t have any mechanical parts that are too expensive to replace, and the majority of the repair cost will be the service call and labor. However, high-end appliances tend to have hi-end parts that can be quite pricey. Control boards and thermostats are probably worth the money if they solve the problem and the repair parts and labor have some warranty. Always ask if the repair has any warranty!
4. HOW OLD IS YOUR REFRIGERATOR?
In the old days refrigerators regularly made it to 20 years or more. However, newer refrigerators are expected to last between 10-15 years before they have a major problem. So if your refrigerator is more than 10 you may want to think twice before putting more than 200.00 into a refrigerator repair.
5. REFRIGERATOR BRAND RELIABILITY
who made your refrigerator may also be something to think about when considering repair refrigerator or replace refrigerator. Here is a page that looks at how frequently different brands of refrigerators needed major repair. And also what refrigerator styles more commonly need repair.
[MOST RELIABLE REFRIGERATOR BRAND] [WHO MAKES THAT BRAND?]
The sealed system of a refrigerator is the heart and circulation system of the appliance and the freezer section is its pulse. If the freezer is freezing food you have a very good indication that the appliance is worth repair, or at least a service call. If the freezer section is not cooling properly then there are a few more questions that need to be asked to determine if your refrigerator is salvageable. Here is a page that will help you get a general idea of what your refrigerator’s major malfunction may be. because sealed system refrigerator repair out of warranty is extremely expensive!
I hope this guide was helpful! If you found it helpful please remember to click the like or share links. Thanks!
New Appliance Shopping Tips
Refrigerators | Stoves | Dishwashers | Cooktops | Wall Ovens | Washing Machines | Dryers | Laundry Centers
Before you start the hunt for a new appliance it’s important to know a few details about your home and the appliances you currently own.
Below you will find lists of the basic information you will need to know about your home and current appliances to avoid making a frustrating and sometimes costly appliance buying mistake.
Advertisers help me keep this site available as a service to you. If you are thinking about buying a new appliance please consider shopping through our site links. Thank you!
1. Do you know the height and width measurements of the space where you intend to put your new refrigerator?
2. Do you have a water supply for an ice maker? Is the valve in good condition?
3. If you are interested in a top or bottom freezer style refrigerator, decide which direction would be best for the door to swing. (Handles on the right or on the left?)
4. How will the refrigerator be moved in and out through your house during installation? Measure the narrowest doorways and gates.
5. Do you have special flooring that needs to be protected from scratching or tearing?
6. Where will your food be stored while your new refrigerator is being installed?
Wondering what percentage of refrigerators sold needed repair or had serious problems? Check out “Refrigerator Reliability Statistics”
There are four main types of stoves: Freestanding, Slide-in, Drop-in, and Eye-level.
Freestanding Range: This is the most common style of stove, sitting directly on the floor, with finished side panels. The stove top does not lap the side or back of the counter top, and the back splash is part of the stove.
Slide-in Range: This style of stove also rests directly on the floor; however, the top of the range will lap over the kitchen counter top on the sides and back for a clean seamless look. The sides of this style of range are usually not finished, and the controls are generally located on the front. You will need to know specific measurement information about your kitchen cabinets, counter top, and supply connections for a smooth installation experience.
Drop-in Range: A drop-in style stove will sit on a base that is built onto the floor; the top of the stove will lap the counter top, and will sometimes have a small back splash attached to the stove. This style of range has very specific cabinet dimension requirements and is often replaced by a freestanding or slide-in style stove.
Eye-level: This style of stove is no longer in production. An eye-level will have a microwave or second oven attached to the lower range that shares the power and or gas supply. (If you have one please send me a picture.) An eye-level range is generally replaced by a freestanding or slide-in range, and a microwave or vent hood is installed in place of the upper oven. Most often a new 120-volt electrical receptacle will need to be installed and the newly exposed wall between the two appliances will need to be painted or covered by a back splash panel.
General questions to ask yourself:
1. Is your stove gas or electric?
2. If your stove is gas, does your home use natural gas or propane?
3. What is the width of the existing range you want to replace? Better yet, what is the width of the space you want it to fit into?
4. Is the gas supply valve positioned on the wall so it will fit into the recessed area on the back of your new range? Or will it need to be moved or modified for a good fit?(Some stoves have more open area in the back than others.)
Note: new stoves do not usually come with gas or electric supply lines.
Most dishwashers require a space that is 24″ wide by 34″ tall. If you have changed your counter top or added flooring since the existing dishwasher was installed, check to be sure you still have 34″ of clearance from the bottom of the counter to the top of the floor. There are very few dishwasher models that are less that 34″ tall.
Most dishwashers require a 3/8″ water supply, 120-volt power supply, and drain connection.
In some cases the water supply valve will be an older size or corroded. In this situation the valve may need to be replaced to install a new dishwasher.
Dishwashers these days have a life span of about seven to ten years, and require some basic maintenance to work their best for that period of time. Factors like low water temperature, too much soap, the wrong kind of detergent, or a mineral build up in the tub may cause poor dishwasher performance.
Check out the “How Dishwashers Work” page before you buy a new appliance.
Cooktops don’t have standard dimensions, though some sizes are more common than others. You will need to know the width and depth of the cooktop to be replaced. Ideally it is good to know the measurement of the cutout hole that your new cooktop needs to fit into. (Altering the cutout size for your cooktop can greatly add to the cost of installation.)
General questions to ask yourself:
Will you need a gas or electric cooktop ?
Is your house plumbed for natural gas or propane?
Most new gas Cooktops will have electronic spark ignition to light the burners, and require a 110-volt power plug.
Built-in ovens don’t have standard dimensions, though some sizes are more common than others. You will need to know the width and height of the oven to be replaced. Ideally it is good to know the the measurement of the cutout hole that your new oven needs to fit into. (Altering the cabinet cutout size for your oven can greatly add to the cost of installation.)
General questions to ask yourself:
Do you need a gas or electric oven?
Is your house plumbed for natural gas or propane?
Is there any room for height or width adjustment in your cabinetry? Such as lowering the base into a drawer, raise the top into a cabinet, or cut the cabinet sides to allow for more width.
Are you interested in the top-load or front-load style?
What are the width and depth measurements of the space were your new washer will sit?
Front-load washers spin twice as fast as top-load washers. . That allows for a more efficient drying time, but it also requires a solid foundation.
I am particularly fond of the higher end stator driven Cabrio and Bravos top-loading, energy saving washers by Whirlpool, although Fisher & Paykel originally developed this washer design.
They are a good alternative to the sometimes problematic front-loading designs. However, they are still highly computerized. An extended warranty is usually a good idea for any appliance made today.
What are the width and depth measurements of the space were your new dryer will sit?
Will your new dryer need to be gas or electric? Electric dryers need a 240-volt power supply.
Is your house plumbed for natural gas or propane?
Ducting: the ducting that is attached to the dryer vent should be less than ten feet long, as straight as possible, not run vertically, and be clear of obstructions, like heavy lint build-up and objects blocking the vent exiting the home. Each 90º turn is like adding 5 feet to the duct’s length.
What is the width depth and height restrictions of the space were the laundry center will be installed?
Will the dryer of the laundry center need to be gas or electric?
Electric dryers require 240-volt power supply.
Is your house plumbed with natural gas or propane?
Appliance User Guides & Installation Manuals
Technical Reference, User Manuals, Part Numbers, Dimension Guides, & Installation Instructions by Brand.
(All links on this page will open in a new window)
Find Your Whirlpool Appliance Owners Guide, User Manuals, Parts Lists, Installation Instructions, Dimension Guides, and Warranty Guides by Model Number.
Find Your Maytag Appliance Owners Guide, User Manuals, Parts Lists, Warranty Guides, Installation Instructions, and Dimension Guides By Model Number.
Find Your Jenn-Air Appliance Owners Guide, User Manuals, Parts Lists, Installation Instructions, Dimension Guides, and Warranty Guides by Model Number.
Find Your Amana Appliance Owners Guide, User Manuals, Parts Lists, Installation Instructions, Dimension Guides, and Warranty Guides by Model Number.
Find Your Electrolux and Frigidaire Appliance Owner /User Manuals, Wiring Diagrams, and Installation Instructions By Model Number.
Find Your General Electric Appliance Owners Guide, User Manuals, Parts Lists, Installation Instructions, Dimension Guides, and Warranty Guides by Model Number.
Find Your Fisher & Paykel Appliance Owners Guide, User Manuals, Installation instructions By Model Number.
Find Your LG Appliance Owners Guide, User Manuals, Installation instructions By Model Number.
Find Your Samsung Appliance Owners Guide, User Manuals, Parts Lists, Installation Instructions, Dimension Guides, and Warranty Guides by Model Number.
Find Your Speed Queen Appliance Owners Guide, User Manuals, Parts Lists, Installation Instructions, Dimension Guides, and Warranty Guides by Model Number.
How Washing Machines Work
Todays Washing Machines Come In Two Main Mechanical Styles, “Top Loading” and “Front Loading” Also Called “Horizontal Access”.
The Idea is Similar but Obviously Some Differences Exist. The Following Is an Overview of How Washing Machines Work.
Click Links Within the Page for More Detailed Information, Troubleshooting, and Help!
Design variations of washing machines differ by manufacturer, but the general principles are essentially the same, and can be divided into two halves, the washer’s control system and the washer’s mechanical system. The washer control system consists of the timer, control boards, load size selector (pressure switch), a water temperature selector, lid switch. The mechanical system includes the motor, transmission, clutch, inner and outer wash tubs, suspension system, agitator, pumps, water valve, and a belt or motor coupling.
Washing machines clean clothing by forcing a water and detergent mixture through fabrics. The action of forcing detergent infused water through your clothing fabric is what enables the detergent to chemically loosen dirt embedded in the cloth and separate it from the fabric. Count your blessings; in the old days, people would beat wet clothes against a rock loosen dirt!
In top loading washing machines the agitator ratchets back and forth dragging clothing down to the bottom of the washer tub. The clothes then move back to the top where the agitator grabs them again. In a front-loading washing machine, the clothes tumble through water in the base of the washer tub over and over again. After the water is pumped out, the inner drum uses centrifugal force to squeeze water from fabrics and clothes by spinning between 500 to 1200 RPM (revolutions per minute.) depending on the washer model.
All washers have two tubs. The inner tub contains your clothing and has lots of holes in it allowing water to pass through freely to the outer tub, which actually contains the water. During the spin portion of the cycle the inner tub spins around 500 RPM (Revolutions Per Minute) in a top-loading washing machines, while Front-loading and energy saving washers spin much faster at about 1000 RPM. This squeezes the majority of water out of your clothing greatly reducing drying time. The drain pump then removes dirty wash water from the outer tub. Slightly more efficient and convenient that a wringer!
That loose sleeve could cost you an arm.
Modern washing machines use a suspension system of springs, slide plates, and load bearing pads to keep the wash tub in the correct position and control the forces required for spinning and stopping the inner tub, as well as reduce the amount of noise associated with washer mechanics.
How Washers Worked
A washer’s timer is the brain behind all of the washing machines functions. The timer has many small contact switches that open and close as they are activated by a rotating cam, similar to a music box or player piano. As the switches close different components within the washer are energized so they can perform their work at the proper time. The timer is usually the first thing blamed for a malfunctioning washer; however, it is rarely the cause. Timers may fail in the following ways. The timer motor doesn’t rotate the internal cam, some of the switch contacts weld closed and never open, or some of the switch contacts build up carbon deposits and fail to close and make contact, not allowing a particular washer component to receive the electricity needed to work. If you look closely at the washer timer in the picture above the third contact from the right is blackened from electrical arcing. Do Not open your washing machine’s timer for a peek they can rarely be reused after being opened. Washer timer problems must be diagnosed by symptoms and voltage checks with a voltmeter.
Some washing machines use control boards instead of a timer for more accurate control of the washer’s functions. The purpose of a control board is basically the same as a timer; energize washing machine components at the proper time. To do this the control board monitors sensors throughout the washing machine to regulate water temperature, wash and spin speeds, fill and drain time as well as user commands. Washing machine control boards are computerized and slightly more difficult to diagnose, and expensive to replace. Fortunately most washers that are control board operated, such as the Whirlpool Duet & Cabrio, Maytag Bravos, and Sears Kenmore Oasis have diagnostic modes that can be used to identify and fix washer problems.
A washing machine’s lid switch indicates whether the lid is open or closed, and will interrupt some or all of the washing machine operations. This is a safety mechanism that has greatly reduced the volume of appliance related injuries. A washer’s timer will generally allow the washer to fill with water while the lid is open; however, most new washers will not allow any mechanical functions while the lid switch is open. Some older models will allow agitation, but no washing machines should spin with the lid open or a broken lid switch. The lid switch is the most common cause for a washer that won’t spin, and some newer washing machines that will fill but not agitate.
All washing machines have an internal water valve that connects to the water supply of your home and automatically controls hot and cold water to flow into the tub by opening an internal gate with several electromagnetic solenoids, also called “coils”. There is one solenoid responsible for the hot side of the water valve and one for the cold side. Some washing machines that have additional dispensers may have additional solenoids to control water flow to the fabric softener, bleach, or detergent cups. Over time the water valve screens can clog up with all kinds of debris and reduce the water volume able to flow through the valve into the washer’s tub. This can cause the washing machine to take a very long time to fill up with water. Some times the valve may fail to close completely and cause water to dribble into the washer’s tub when it should not.
Washing machines commonly use a pressure-sensing switch to control the amount of water released by the water valve into the washing machine’s tub. The washer’s pressure-switch is connected to the base of the washer’s outer tub with a clear rubber tube that carries air that increases in pressure as the water level in the washtub increases. When the air pressure reaches a particular level the switch will “open” stopping the flow of electricity to the water valve allowing it to drop closed, stopping the flow of water. Any pinching or holes in this tubing will not allow the pressure switch to “feel” the water pressure in the tub and will often result in the washing machine overflowing, because it thinks that the washer tub is empty and will not close the washer’s water valve.
The agitator is the arm of any washing machine. During the wash cycle, the agitator moves back and forth to pull the clothes through the water enabling the detergent to loosen dirt and soil. The washer agitator is directly attached to a drive system that alternates between clockwise and counter clockwise rotation. Two part agitators have a separate top portion that ratchets with a cam mechanism. Small cams within the agitator top control its movement are often called agitator “dogs“. These agitator dogs can become worn down due to overloading, resulting in an agitator that won’t move.
Some washing machines such as GE brand washers use a plastic hub called an agitator coupling to transfer power from the drive system to the agitator. This agitator coupling can strip out over time and no longer drive the agitator, again causing an agitator that won’t move.
All washers have a drain pump to force the dirty water up and out of the washer tub. Some washer styles also have a recirculation pump that will recycle the water in the tub back on top of the clothes to encourage clothing movement and reduce the amount of water needed to complete a wash cycle. washer pumps are ether directly attached to the washer’s motor, driven by a belt from the washer motor, or the pump may have its own internal electric motor. All pumps have a relatively small paddle wheel called the impeller that spins, pushing the water in the direction of its rotation. Pumps can become clogged, or break internally causing complaints like…”My washer won’t drain.” Or “My washer’s full of water.” Most problems with a washer’s pump are fairly easy to fix, just be sure you have the water in the tub under control before you remove any pump or you will have a huge mess to clean up.
The washing machine’s motor drives the agitator, pump, and inner tub. Some washing machines are “direct drive”, in which the motor is connected directly to the pump and transmission. Other washing machines use a belt drive system in which the motor applies force to the drive system and in some cases the pump with belt and pulley. On some belt driven washing machines, the pump may have its own internal motor powered separately by the timer. And if that wasn’t enough to remember some washing machines use a direct driving motor that is magnetically driven with a stator and rotor.
Most washing machines use a clutch to absorb some of the force generated by fast starting motors. The clutch allows the transmission to grab the tub or agitator in a gradual manner rather than all at once, which can cause damage . Some washers use a clutch mechanism while others rely on slippage and gradual tension of the belt and pulley. A worn out clutch is often responsible for a washing machine that is not spinning fast enough or wet clothes at the end of the spin cycle.
A Belt is used to transfer energy from one mechanical component to another. A belt can also be used as a clutch to reduce the amount of strain applied by fast starting motors used in washing machines. A belt’s surface can become “glazed” or burned slightly reducing the belt’ ability to hold a pulley. This lack of holding ability in the belt’s surface leads to slipping creating more heat and additional burning of the belt’s surface. Some of the Whirlpool build Cabrio and Maytag Bravos washing machines now use a belt driven “Splutch Drive” system in place of the direct driven stator drive models.
Direct drive washing machines use a part called the motor coupling in place of a belt to transfer motion energy from the washer’s motor to the washer’s transmission. The washer’s motor coupling is made of rubber and plastic and is fairly common to break when the washer is regularly overloaded, creating a sound something like this Fear not, a washer motor coupling is inexpensive and simple to replace.
The washing machine transmission drives both the spinning of the inner tub and the back and forth ratcheting motion of the agitator. a washer has either a single direction or a reversing motor. With a single direction motor, an electromechanical device called the (Solenoid)controls whether the transmission drives the agitator or the inner tub. Reversing motors engage the tub when they rotate in one direction and the agitator when they move in the opposite direction.
Who Makes That Appliance?
It can be extremely difficult to figure out what appliance manufacturer actually produced a particular appliance! Especially when asking “Who makes Kenmore?” The answer to that question has a great deal to do with how long your appliance will last and how much money it will cost to keep it working! The main appliance manufacturing companies in existence today are tagged as the parent company other appliance brands related to that parent manufacturer are listed under “subsidiary appliance brands”
For Technical Reference, User Manuals, Part Numbers, Dimension Guides, & Installation Instructions by Brand Click Here.
(Subsidiary Appliance Brands of Whirlpool)
(Subsidiary Appliance Brands of Eletrolux)
(Subsidiary Appliance Brands of General Electric)
Who Makes Kenmore? Kenmore doesn’t actually make any of the appliances they sell. Sears Kenmore major appliances can be produced by LG, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, Samsung, & GE as well as other smaller appliance manufacturers. Kenmore model numbers usually have a 3 digit prefix followed by a decimal point that identifies the manufacturer, here is a guide to those manufacturer codes. The model prefix in this image is 110. (Whirlpool built)
|Model Prefix||Manufacturer||Model Prefix||Manufacturer|
|174, 335, 596||Amana||629||Jen-Air|
|233||Broan||580, 721, 767, 795||LG|
|C362, C363, C968, C978||Camco||586||Panasonic|
|253, 336, 417, 587, 622, 628, 719, 790, 791, 970, C970||Frigidaire||647||Roper|
|362, 363, 464||G.E.||401||Samsung|
|473||Hoover||103, 106, 110, 154, 155, 198, 664, 665, 835, 850, 917, C646, C880||Whirlpool|
New Dryer Shopping? Reviews, Reliability, & Stuff You Should Know!
(A Service Technician’s Guide to Buying The Best Clothes Dryer)
One thing I can almost guarantee, unfortunately your next best dryer probably won’t be as good as your last one. Hopefully this “best dryer” repair guide will help you to make the best dryer decision possible.
Dryer Brand Info | Electric Dryer | Gas Dryers | Dryer Styles (Pros & Cons) | Questions You Should Ask | Dryer Feature Guide | Dryer Reliability
People ask me “What’s the best clothes dryer to buy?” Dryers are very simple machines that work one heck of a lot faster than a line in your back yard! However, it is easy to get caught up in the appearance
and advertised features of a clothes dryer and end up paying more than necessary for a bunch of features you will never use. Hopefully this information will bring you back from the world of dryer marketing to the world of dryer reality for a wise clothes dryer purchase!
Note: Even though an appliance company makes a good dryer, it doesn’t necessarily mean they have any kind of corporate level customer service to speak of. You need to be confident the company you are purchasing your clothes dryer from will go to bat for you if need be. Yelling through the phone at an automated corporate message system will not get you very far…Although you might feel better after releasing some steam… (Pun intended)
Through the next few pages I hope to give you a well rounded idea of the best clothes dryer options available and dispel some of the dryer marketing magic being cast on most unprepared new dryer shoppers.
Frigidaire clothes dryers are generally a good value for the price, especially considering the simplicity of clothes dryer mechanics. Even though Frigidaire dyers are not expected to last as long as some other dryers the cost savings will usually cover a dryer repair or two. Replacement parts and repair service are readily available, and most frigidaire dryer models and problems are fairly easy to repair yourself.
Because Frigidaire dryers are very popular it’s usually no problem finding good repair people to help with dryer problems that my arise. Points of weakness are the front and rear dryer drum support points, as well as internal lint build up in the lint trap housing near the dryer’s blower.
GE dryers are very similar mechanically to Frigidaire dryers. However, repair parts tend to be a little more costly. Kudos to General Electric’s appliance division for bringing more appliance manufacturing back into the USA! Just be ready to pay a made in the USA price when it comes time for dryer repair. GE is also pioneering the “smart grid” and other “smart appliance” technology… In my opinion “KISS” (Keep it simple stupid) I’ve seen Terminator and I don’t want to get taken out by my dryer or coffee maker, much less try to fix a networked clothes dryer when it starts acting weird. GE is also very protective of their dryer technical repair and troubleshooting information so it can be very difficult to find the information needed to make a correct diagnosis. Over all GE clothes dryers are a time tested reliable appliance. Points of weakness are the front and rear dryer drum support points, as well as internal lint build up near the dryer’s blower.
Sears Kenmore has marketing down to a science! Kenmore does not produce dryers themselves instead they are produced by a variety of dryer manufacturers and then branded with the Kenmore name and labeled with an inflated price tag. So as you can imagine there are large mechanical and reliability differences from one Kenmore dryer to another. Sears is also the new dryer engineering and design proving ground for several dryer producers, so if it’s the latest thing in dryer technology Sears Kenmore is where you can get it… If it falls apart two weeks out of warranty good luck! I costs a lot of money to make Sears Kenmore one of the first brands that comes to mind when you think about buying a new dryer…
LG clothes dryers have been climbing the ranks of customer favorites. LG dryers tend to be fairly quiet and mechanically sound. These dryers tend to be more computerized than other dryer options available which can make them costly to maintain over their life span. LG has had a difficult time securing and maintaining a service and repair network. Depending on where you live warranty support or repair service for your LG dryer may be a long wait. LG Dryer repair parts have also been difficult to find. So be sure to do your research and ask the right questions from your local dryer dealer! But with all that said LG clothes dryers are highly ranked and work very well.
Samsung dryers have also been climbing the ranks as a customer favorite. Samsung dryers are also fairly quiet and mechanically solid. Samsung dryers tend to be more computerized than other dryer options available which can make them costly to maintain over their life span. Most Samsung dryer parts are very affordable, however, some common parts like heating elements are highly inflated. Samsung has also had a difficult time securing and maintaining a service and repair network. Depending on where you live getting warranty support or repair service for your Samsung dryer may be a long wait. Samsung Dryer repair parts have in some cases been difficult to acquire. So be sure to do your research and ask the right questions from your local dryer dealer before you lay the cash on the barrel head for your new Samsung clothes dryer.
Whirlpool / Maytag Dryers
Whirlpool makes new dryers under many different appliance brands. A few of them are Maytag, Amana, Estate, Kitchen Aid, Kirkland (Some Sears Kenmore)…For a full list of the current dryer brands being produced by Whirlpool corporation Click Here Most of these dryer brands are mechanically the same. However, you may notice some significant price and feature differences. Of all of the dryers available today I always suggest a Whirlpool built dryer with the lint trap located on the top of the dryer. This top lint trap is not as convenient to clean as some other dryers but it is the most effective at filtering lint that tends to internally build up in other dryer designs. Whirlpool dryers are very common so repair parts and dryer service companies are easy to come by. While Whirlpool’s customer service leaves something to be desired, in my experience Whirlpool top lint trap dryers are the most reliable and serviceable dryers on the market. Not all Whirlpool dryers have top lint traps. All dryers designed to match or stack on front-loading washers will have a lint trap in the front of the dryer and have little benefit over other similar dryer options.