Whirlpool Duet Washer Diagnostics
Duet Washer Diagnostics
Whirlpool Cabrio Washer Diagnostic Modes
This Repair Guide is for the Following Cabrio Washing Machine Models
Whirlpool Cabrio Washing Machines
WTW6200SW0, WTW6200SW1, WTW6200SW2, WTW6200SW3, WTW6200VW0, WTW6200VW1, WTW6300SB0, WTW6300SB1, WTW6300SB2, WTW6300SG0, WTW6300SG1, WTW6300SG2, WTW6300SW0, WTW6300SW1, WTW6300SW2, WTW6300WW0, WTW6340WW0, WTW6400SW0, WTW6400SW1, WTW6400SW2, WTW6400SW3, WTW6500WW1, WTW6600SB0, WTW6600SB1, WTW6600SB2, WTW6600SB3, WTW6600SG0, WTW6600SG1, WTW6600SG2, WTW6600SG3, WTW6600SW0, WTW6600SW1, WTW6600SW2, WTW6600SW3, WTW6700TU1, WTW6700TU2, WTW6700TW0, WTW6700TW1, WTW6700TW2, WTW6800WB1, WTW6800WL1, WTW6800WW1, WTW7300XW0, WTW7340XW0, WTW7600XW0, WTW7800XW0
Cabrio Washer Repair Guide
Troubleshooting Cabrio Problems
Cabrio Diagnostic Mode
Cabrio Error Codes
Tips & Tricks
Caution! Diagnostic modes are preformed with the washing machine plugged in and will also bypass some of the washing machines standard safety features. Extreme caution should be used to avoid electric shock as well as injury or death due to moving parts!
Note: The washer should perform as described in these tests. However, the information contained in your washer’s wire diagram and technical sheet may be slightly different. Always double-check your washing machine’s wire diagram and technical sheet before drawing a conclusion. If you get a different result you may want to look at the component descriptions on this page for more clues and tests.
Console & Indicators Test Diagnostic Mode
1. The washing machine needs to be plugged in and in stand by mode with all indicators off.
2. Choose any one button on the washer’s console except Power, Start, or Stop. Press/Hold 3 Seconds – Release 3 Seconds – Press/Hold 3 Seconds – Release 3 Seconds – Press/Hold 3 Seconds.
3. If the diagnostic test mode has been successfully entered, all of the indicator lights will glow for five seconds with 88 on the time display. (If it didn’t work try #2 again One one thousand…Two one thousand…Three one thousand)
4. If there are any saved fault codes they will be displayed. If there are no save fault codes all indicator lights will turn off for a moment then back on with 88 displayed and the automatic diagnostic test mode will begin in five seconds.
5. If you are unable to enter the diagnostic test mode, press the power button and verify that the button you were trying to use operates properly to program the washer’s cycle function. There may be something wrong with that function button. Find another button on the control that appears to work and try to enter the diagnostic mode with that button. You may also want to verify that the user interface has a good connection to the washing machine control board at the P11 terminal.
Note: Pressing the STOP or POWER button at any time to exit the washing machine’s diagnostic mode.
|Slow spin to 23 rpm||If the tub does not spin go to manual diagnostic mode: Motor, Spin.|
|Cabrio’s Hot and cold (Warm Water) primary water valves open as well as the detergent and fresh fill valves, then the fresh valve opens until the Cabrio’s basket floats, disengaging from the basket hub. The Cabrio washer will then continue filling through the detergent and fresh valves to the minimum water level.||If there is no water or the water temperature is wrong go to manual diagnostic mode: Water valves.|
If the basket does not float or disengage, look for the cause of inner wash basket friction.
|The Cabrio’s cold water valve and the bleach valve open for 10 seconds.||If no water flows through the bleach cup go to manual diagnostic mode: Water valves.|
|The Cabrio’s Hot water and fabric softener valves are opened for 10 seconds. NOTE: if your Cabrio washing machine doesn’t have a fabric softener dispenser, this step will happen but no water will flow.||If your washing machine has a fabric softener dispenser and no water flows go to manual diagnostic mode: Water valves.|
|The Cabrio Washer’s hot and cold (Warm Water) primary water valves open as well as the detergent water valve for 10 seconds||If no water flows through the detergent cup go to manual diagnostic mode: Water valves|
|The Cabrio washer will agitate for 15 seconds.||If the washing machine does not agitate go to manual diagnostic mode: motor, agitate.|
|The Cabrio Washer’s recirculation pump will energize for 10 seconds, spraying water back into the wash tub from the back left of the washer.||If no water is being re-circulated go to manual diagnostic mode: Pumps.|
|The Cabrio washer’s drain pump is energized with 120 VAC until the inner wash basket sinks and reengages with the Cabrio basket hub plus an extra 10 seconds timed drain.||If water is not draining from the washing machine go to manual diagnostic mode: Pumps|
If the inner wash basket does not reengage, remove the inner wash basket and determine the cause of friction.
|The Cabrio washer will continue to drain and slow spin at 23 rpm||If the drain pump is not pumping water from the tub go to manual diagnostic mode: Pumps.|
If the inner basket is not turning go to manual diagnostic mode: Motor.
|The inner wash basket should coast to a stop.||If the basket does not stop spinning within 5 seconds press the stop button on the washer’s control and restart the test.|
Cycle Signal Beeps.
|If no beep is heard verify that the cycle signal is on.|
Perform steps 1 and 2 for the activation of the automatic diagnostic test mode then press the same button one more time while 88 is on the washing machine display for 5 seconds. Pressing the “STOP” or “POWER” button at any time to exit the washing machine’s diagnostic mode.
Note: If the button is not pressed within the 5 seconds that the 88 is displayed the automatic diagnostic test mode will begin after any saved fault/ error codes are displayed.
If the manual diagnostic test mode was entered correctly you will hear a single beep and a 2 digit console ID# is displayed for 3 seconds followed by 00 and the “add a garment” indicator light will flash.
If no 2 digit console ID# code is displayed you may need to replace the user interface, but try to run the rest of the test anyway.
Note: If no buttons are pressed on the washing machine within 5 minutes the washer will exit the manual diagnostic test mode and enter the normal standby mode.
Pressing and holding the “Cycle Signal” button until a single beep is heard and the display displays “Pt” for zero calibration can recalibrate the water level sensor. (All clothing and water must be out of the washing machine’s tub for proper calibration.
Important Note: When manually opening the water valves in the diagnostic mode the water valves WILL NOT automatically be turned off by the pressure-sensing switch. Don’t go make a sandwich with water flowing into the washing machine’s tub or your house will become a swimming pool!
By turning the cycle selection knob or selecting a particular cycle setting (push button models) then pressing the “Start” button you can manually energize a secondary dispenser valve to test if it is working properly. Pressing the “Start” button a second time will turn the valve off.
Pressing the “Wash/Rinse Temp” Selection button will energize the primary hot and cold water valves. The appropriate water valve will open for your selection.
Hot + Start = Opens the hot valve
Cold + Start = Opens the cold valve
Warm + Start = Opens the both hot and cold valves.
Note: For water to enter the tub at least one a primary and one secondary valve must be opened. Just the Fresh, Detergent, Bleach, or Fabric softener valve solenoids by themselves will not release water into the washer tub.
Pressing the “Start” button will turn the valve on and off
Select Cycle With Knob or Button
Valve Solenoid Energized
Whites/Whites + Start
Heavy Duty + Start
Normal + Start
Fabric Softener (not all models)
Casual + Start
Recirculation & Drain Pump Tests:
Note: Pumps move water… so these tests work best if you have filled the washing machine tub with some water with the water valve tests above.
To manually activate the Recirculation pump on the Whirlpool Cabrio washing machines press and release the “Clean Washer” or “Drain & Spin” button (push button models) or Select the “Clean Washer” or “Drain & Spin” cycle option and press start (rotary knob models).
Pressing the “Clean Washer”, “Drain & Spin”, or “Start” button a second time will turn the recirculation pump off. Pressing the “Clean Washer”, “Drain & Spin”, or “Start Button” again will turn on the drain pump. Pressing the “Clean Washer”, “Drain & Spin”, or “Start Button” button a fourth time will turn the drain pump off.
Lid Switch Test:
Opening the washing machine lid should cause the “Clothes Clean” or “Done” indicator lights to turn off. Closing the lid should cause the “Clothes Clean” or “Done” indicator lights to turn on.
Lid Lock Test:
Note: Lid must be closed when doing this test or an invalid button noise will be heard.
To Lock the lid press and release the “2nd Rinse” or “Extra Rinse” button, the door lock light will come on. To unlock the lid press the “2nd Rinse” or “Extra Rinse” button a second time, the door lock light will turn off.
Note: Water should be covering the wash plate or agitator vanes to allow the inner basket to float and disengage from the basket hub for all motor tests. See Manual Water Valve Diagnostic Tests. Problems with any of the motor tests are most often related to something lodged between the inner and outer wash baskets creating friction, bad wire connections, broken wires, or control problems.
Rotor Position Sensor (RPS):
The three rinse and spin indicators are used to detect the three rotor position sensors located on the washing machine’s motor stator. As the inner wash basket rotates so does the rotor. Lift the lid and manually rotate the inner tub as the tub turns these three lights should cycle on and off indicating that the RPS is correctly detecting the position and speed of the rotor.
Note: to activate the spin the lid must be closed and the lid lock engaged. See Lid Switch Tests. If the lid is not closed or locked an invalid key beep will sound. Also the tub must be floating for this test to work properly.
To start the washing machine spinning at 23 rpm press the “Spin Speed”, “Water Level”, or “Load Size buttons. Press the same button again to accelerate to 530 rpm. Press the same button again to accelerate to 1000 rpm. Pressing the same button a fourth time will turn off the motor. You will also notice the RPS sensing lights are active during all washer motor tests.
To manually start the washing machine’s agitation press and release the “Soil Level” button once for the gentle wash action, a second time for the normal action, a third time for the Heavy wash action, and a fourth time to turn the motor off.
The Console and indicator diagnostic test on a Whirlpool Cabrio washing machine is used to check the cycle selector knob, console indicators, user interface buttons, two-digit display, and beeper.
1. The washing machine should be in standby (off) mode.
2. Press and release the following buttons within 4 seconds.
“Soil Level” – “Wash/Rinse Temp” – “Soil Level” – “Wash/Rinse Temp”
3. if successful “dt” should display on the washing machines indicator.
4. Within 5 seconds press “Start” all indicator lights should come on and 88 should be displayed.
5. Press start again to turn off the status indicators and the two-digit display, all other indicators should remain lit.
6. Press “Start” again to turn all indicator lights back on. Rotating the cycle selector knob back and forth should turn the corresponding lights off or on. Pressing buttons should also toggle lights on and off to verify they are working properly. Pressing the “Soil Level”, “Spin Speed:, “Water Level”, “Load Size”, or “Wash/Rinse Temp” buttons should light up all indicators for that selection.
Whirlpool Calypso Washing Machine Repair Guide GVW9959
The spiral movement of the axis of a rotating body, such as the oscillation of a spinning top.
The Whirlpool Calypso Washing Machine was an early top loading energy saving washer produced in 2000-2001. It is a good washer design for the most part but is notorious for pump problems. This washer style is slightly more complicated than most top loading washers. It’s mechanical functions are controlled by two control boards, the Machine Controller Board and the Motor Control Board, as well as several sensing devices. This Calypso washer repair guide will cover the components used in the calypso washing machine, troubleshooting common calypso washing machine problems, calypso washing machine diagnostic modes, Calypso error codes, and information to help with testing individual calypso components.
Calypso Washing Machine Parts
CONSOLE SWITCH PANEL, MACHINE CONTROLLER BOARD, MOTOR CONTROL BOARD, LID SWITCH, DRIVE MOTOR, LEVELER, UNIVERSAL JOINT, DRIVE SYSTEM, PRESSURE SWITCHES, LOG VALVE ASSEMBLY, WATER PUMP
The Whirlpool Calypso washing machine uses a panel of switches also called a membrane to receive and relay the user’s commands to the machine controller board for further processing. When a button is pressed temporary contact is made with in the membrane allowing the machine controller board to log the command and initiate the appropriate cycle and wash options.
The Machine Controller interprets your commands from the key switch pads tooperate the cycle selected. The Machine Controller interfaces with the Motor Controller through the P4 and P2 connections to operate the Drive motor and Pump motor through their various functions during the cycle. The Machine Controller also directly operates the water fill and dispenser solenoids, interprets the thermistor readings, lid switch condition, as well as the position of the contacts in the Operating and Flood Pressure switches.
The Motor Controller receives commands from the Machine Controller to operate the Drive Motor at the desired speed and direction at various times in the cycle. It does so by applying varying voltages and frequencies to the Drive Motor. The Motor Controller also operates the Pump Motor direction to either recirculate or drain water.
The Lid switch is used to sense if the lid is closed and it is safe to proceed with the washing machine’s nutation and spin functions. The Calypso washer is equipped with a peekaboo mode that allows the washer to continue nutation for 5 seconds after the lid has been opened. After the lid is closed the start button must be pressed to continue the wash cycle.
This washer uses a reversible, variable speed (Single Phase Induction Motor) as its main drive motor. Motor speed varies from 350 RPM to 4500 RPM. The ½ horsepower motor draws five to seven amps, in normal use. It uses a voltage output from the motor controller and operates at variable AC voltages and frequencies. The Motor Controller provides a variable frequency signal to the motor, which provides the various speeds to nutate and spin. Checking voltages to the drive motor should not be attempted.
Other Calypso Washing Machine Links:
During Nutation, the Wash Plate is tipped at a 35 degree angle and must be free to undulate to move the clothing properly. The Wash Plate is attached to a Universal Joint that allows the Plate that freedom of movement. The Universal Joint is attached to the basket drive block by a spanner nut and is sealed top and bottom by a boot and various seals to keep water from damaging its pivoting parts. The boot is attached to the bottom of the U-Joint and prevents water from getting to the U-Joint from underneath. Attached to the basket drive hub is an O-ring that forms a seal between the U-Joint boot and the basket drive hub. The top of the U-Joint is sealed by six, (6), grommets and a gasket that is attached to the underside of the inner wash plate. The six grommets, wash plate gasket and/or O-ring MUST be replaced whenever their sealing surface(s) have been disturbed. The Seal Kit is Part #285842.
CALYPSO LEVELER (Part# 285910)
The leveler tilts the nutate or outer wash plate from a level to a 35 degree tilted position. The leveler is driven by the nutate shaft which replaces the traditional agitator shaft. A shifting mechanism on the underside of the leveler moves it from a perpendicular alignment in the spin mode to the 35 degree tilt required for nutation. In the spin mode, the top of the leveler is positioned to be in line with the nutate shaft. This levels the outer wash plate so that the spin basket spins without an out of balance condition that would be caused by a tilted wash plate. The leveler shift mechanism is moved from nutate to spin by the nutate shaft direction and an interference with the inner wash plate.
The Drive Motor operates the nutate and spin functions by reversing direction. The Drive Motor is linked to the drive mechanisms by a stretch belt (part# 8562613). The belt transfers the motion of the Drive Motor to a Drive Pulley. The Drive Pulley has a splined hub, into which the Nutate Shaft is inserted and is in motion in whichever direction the Drive Pulley is turning. The Drive Pulley, Drive Motor and Drive Belt all turn in a clock-wise direction, as viewed from underneath when the system is Nutating. The Drive Motor reverses direction for Spin and causes the Drive Pulley to turn in a counterclockwise direction, as viewed from underneath. When turning in this direction, an actuating bump in the hub of the Drive Pulley will contact the Brake Release pawl on the Spin Tube/Brake assembly. This releases the brakes and allows the basket to spin.
CALYPSO PRESSURE SWITCHES
Operating pressure switch “OPR” (Part# W10311359)
Recalculation pressure switch “FLD” (Part# 8054767)
The washer uses two pressure switches to control the amount of water entering the tub and to protect against an overfill condition. The operating pressure switch, marked OPR, controls the amount of water that enters the tub during normal wash and rinse functions. This switch operates in the same manner as similar pressure switches through a pressure switch tube, diaphragm and switch. The switch contact is normally closed and will open on pressure rise. The overfill pressure switch, marked FLD, is used to guard against failure of the operating pressure switch or an overfill condition caused by the consumer adding water to the basket. The overfill pressure switch operates in the same manner as the operating pressure switch, except it’s trip setting is slightly higher than the operating pressure switch. The switch contact is normally closed and will open on pressure rise. These pressure switches are NOT interchangeable. If an overfill condition is detected, the overfill switch will signal the electronic control which causes it to discontinue the current cycle. “FL” will flash on the control panel display and the beeper will repeat a warning every 10 seconds. The pump is cycled in drain mode for a half minute on, half minute off until the overfill switch is reset or power is disconnected from the washer. If the flood switch does reset, the washer will remain in standby mode with “FL” displayed. It will not automatically restart the cycle.
CALYPSO LOG VALVE ASSEMBLY (Part# 9724754)
The log valve assembly consists of an inlet valve with hot and cold water valves and solenoids for incoming water supply and four (4) outlet valves for the water to exit the valve body. The outlets drive the dispensers under the washer top and allow for fresh water fill. Also included in the log valve assembly, is the thermistor which is used to monitor incoming water temperature.
The table below shows what resistance level the thermistor should have at a given temperature. It’s best to let things cool down and use room temperature as a known value.
Click Here to learn how to use a multimeter for measuring resistance values
CALYPSO RECIRCULATION and DRAIN
CALYPSO WATER PUMP (Part# 285990)
The pump is directly driven by a separate reversible 120 VAC 60 Hz motor. By being reversible, the motor provides for two separate operations of the washer.
CALYPSO OUTER TUB SUMP
The Outer Tub sump plays a role in the drain and water recirculation function The sump area includes two check balls that direct water flow when the water pump operates in the drain and recirc direction. When water is present in the tub, the check balls will float in the proximity of the recirculation and drain sump ports. Water weight or water pressure applied to the ball(s) will cause them to drop away from their respective port or seal off the port.
During the Recirculation Mode, the pump motor turns counter-clockwise (as viewed from underneath the washer). This causes the water pump to draw water from the tub through the drain sump port, forcing the recirculation check ball to seal the recirculation sump port and force water through the recirculation tube outlet. Water is recirculated back into the tub onto the load.
During the Drain Mode, the pump motor turns clockwise (as viewed from underneath the washer). This causes the water pump to draw the water from the tub through the recirculation port, forcing the drain check ball to seal the drain sump port and force the water through the drain hose.
Whirlpool Duet Front-Load Washing Machine Repair Guide
So your Duet washer has a gremlin?! Well that happens, a little too frequently if you ask me…
The good news is Whirlpool Duet washing machines have a diagnostic mode to help troubleshoot what’s the problem with your washer.
Here’s the tricky part. There have been several washing machines that Whirlpool has chosen to name Duet. The Whirlpool think tank must be music lovers or something. This Duet washer repair guide is for the latest direct drive version.
WFW70HE, WFW80HE, WFW81HE, WFW94HE, WFW95HE, WFW96HE, WFW97HE (Non-Steam)
WFW8640, WFW86HE, WFW8740, WFW87HE, WFW88HE (Steam)
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Duet Diagnostic Test Mode
Duet Quick Diagnostic Test | Duet Washer Error Codes
Duet Washer Part Testing | Duet Wire Diagram
Duet Washer Diagnostic Test Mode
- Your Duet washer needs to be in standby (Plugged in with all control lights off)
- Pick any three buttons on the Duet washer control except power, start, or cancel.
- Now do the key dance within eight seconds. Button 1, Button 2, Button 3, Button 1, Button 2, Button 3, Button 1, Button 2, Button 3 (You are pressing nine buttons in 8 seconds, so it needs to be pretty quick.)
- If you got into the Duet washer’s diagnostics, all the control lights will turn on and “888” will be displayed showing you all the time display lights are working. After a few seconds, all the washer’s display lights will flash. If there are any saved error or fault codes, the time display should now show the most recent error code.
- Remember what the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd buttons were because you will be using them again to troubleshoot problems with your Duet washer. If you were not able to get your washer into the diagnostic mode, turn the washer off with the power button and try again with 3 different buttons. (One of the 3 buttons you were using may not be working.)
Note: If no buttons are pressed on the washer for 5 minutes the washer will exit the diagnostics mode.
Duet Washer Diagnostics In A Nutshell
Duet Washer User Interface Test (UI)
- Press the 1st button you used to enter the Duet Diagnostics Mode.
- Now that you are in the Duet washer interface test you can press each button one time. when a button is pressed the button’s indicator light should turn on and you should get a beep. you can also rotate the washers cycle selection knob and it should have the same effect. Pressing the washer’s power button 2 times will exit the diagnostics mode.
- Exit the Duet user interface by pressing the 1st button you used to enter the Duet Diagnostics Mode.
Note: If your Duet washer has an F9E1 or SUDS error code (long drain) you may want to skip passed all the fill steps to step C07 (to test the drain pump.) This will hopefully keep your beloved Duet washer from filling with more water that it can’t drain. You can’t skip C00 (Door Lock) and C03 (Dispensing System)
- Press the 2nd button you used to enter the Duet Diagnostics Mode.
- All the washer’s lights should turn off and the start button should begin to flash… It’s flashing so press it…
- You can skip trough the Duet washers quick test functions by pressing the Start button. (All except C00 (Door Lock) and C03 (Dispensing System))
Duet Washer Quick Test Diagnostic Guide
- C00 Duet Washer’s door locks, unlocks, and locks again, drain pump runs for 15 seconds.
- C01 (Some models) Duet Washer Heater turns on, and the steam valve is tested.
- C02 Duet Washer’s cold water valve will open.
- C03 Duet Washer’s dispensing motor moves to pre-wash position.
- C04 Duet Washer’s hot water valve opens.
- C05 Duet Washer’s drum rotates clockwise at wash speed.
- C06 Duet Washer’s drum continues to rotate clockwise, and the heater is turned back on. IF more water needed to reach the minimum water level for wash the valve will open.
- C07 Duet Washer’s drain pump should be sent power from the control to run until the washer is drained plus 15 seconds.
- C08 Duet Washer’s drum rotates counterclockwise to max spin speed. (Keep needed body parts away from moving washer parts!)
Having Problems Starting Duet Diagnostics
If you where unable to get your Duet washer to start the diagnostics mode, here are a few things to try…
- If the power button on your washer doesn’t work look at the “Duet Washer Won’t Turn On” on the 1st page of the Duet washer repair guide.
- Power up the washer with the power button (that works) and test the 3 buttons you are trying to use to start diagnostics. Do they seem to function? If not find 3 buttons that do seem to work in normal washer operation and try using those to start diagnostics. If no buttons seem to work but the power button, check connection to the used interface connector at UI7 on the Duet main control board.
- Error codes will display during a wash cycle… do you remember any faults that may shed some light on the situation?
- If it just ain’t working… you probably need a new primary control…
Duet Washer Error / Fault Codes
Once you are in the Duet Washer’s Diagnostic Mode momentarily press the 3rd button you used to enter diagnostics, and the washer will display the last 4 fault codes one button press at a time. There are a few helpful things to note here. If the Duet successfully runs 10 cycles in a row with no fault the error will be cleared from the washer’s memory, so any errors you see are likely new and active.
After you have recorded any stored errors, you can clear the code by pressing and holding the 3rd diagnostics button for 5 seconds. If there are no stored errors, 888 will be displayed with three beeps.
Duet Washer error and fault codes are shown by alternating F#__ and E#__ The F error describes the washer system and the E error further defines the washer part that may be having a problem. F1, F2, F6 Are primary control and program faults. F3 faults are washer sensor related problems. F5 errors are door lock and door switch related duet codes. F7 Faults are motor and motor control related problems. F8 Faults are water related… valve, dispensing system, water level, steam valve, and flow meter problems. Lastly F9 errors are related to the washer’s ability to drain.
NOTE: “Anytime I say unplug and check connections” or something like that…
It also means unplug the washer, so you don’t get electrocuted!
SUDS Error – Suds fault.
- Your Duet washer has detected that it is full of soap suds which are difficult to drain. Or perhaps your Duet washer wants a beer… This can be caused by using non HE washer detergent, using too much soap, or possibly a drain pump or pressure sensing problem.
F0E1 Error – Load detected during a clean cycle fault.
- Your Duet washer has encountered a load during a washer cleaning cycle. If this does not appear to be the case you may have mechanical friction causing drag when the inner washer drum is rotating.
F1E1 Error – Main control fault.
- This is a bad one… Duet washer central control error. Try unplugging the washer for a minute and putting the washer through a quick diagnostic test and see what you get… In some cases, this can reset the control and buy you some time.
F1E2 Error – Motor control fault.
- The motor control board (MCU) has attempted to reset several times and did not like the result. (Duet Washer Motor Tests)
F2E3 Error – Cycle fault.
- This is a rare one, but it means that something is wrong with the washer cycle that was selected. Put your Duet washer through the UI Tests, and check all of the connections to the control. Your washer may need a new main control board.
F3E1 Error – Duet Washer Pressure Switch/ Sensor Fault.
- Check the pressure sensing hose for kinks or blockage. You will also want to test the pressure sensor (Duet Washer Pressure Sensor Check)
- Check the washers fill hose and valve screens for anything that may cause the washer to fill slowly.
F3E2 Error – Duet Washer Temperature Sensor Fault.
- This error will display if the washer’s temperature sensor is out of range. (23º – 217º) Check all wire connections from control to the washer temp sensor. I have had several of these become unplugged at the sensor connection at the back of the washer drum. (Duet Washer Temperature Sensor Check)
F5E1 Error – Duet Washer Door Switch Fault.
- Possible causes…
1. Your Duet washer has a bad door switch.
2. You have not opened to door for three wash cycles… (Too many Margarita!?)
3. Trying to start a cycle when the washer door is open. (Duet Washer Door Switch Check)
F5E2 Error – Duet Washer Door Lock Fault.
- Your Duet washer was not able to lock the door after 6 times… you can’t say it didn’t try. Check that the tab on the washer’s door that inserts into the door lock is not broken, that it’s properly aligned with the door lock hole, and that there is nothing that may be jamming the lock. (Duet Washer Door Lock Check)
F5E3 Error – Door Unlock Fault.
- Your Duet washer was not able to unlock after six tries. Check that the tab on the washer’s door that inserts into the door lock is not broken, that it’s properly aligned with the door lock hole, and that there is nothing that may be jamming the lock.
F6E2 Error – Communication fault.
- Communication error between the primary control and the motor control. Check all the wire connections from the CCU to the MSU for good connection. If everything looks good, check for broken wires with a multi meter.
F6E2 and F6E3 Errors – Communication fault
- Communication fault between the main control board (CCU) and the user interface (UI) unplug and check the wire connections between the washer’s (CCU) and the washer’s (UI)
F7E2 Error – Motor or motor control board fault.
- Make sure the inner drum turns freely. (There may be some magnetic resistance (Magnetic Motor), but there should be no mechanical drag.)) (Duet Washer Motor Check)
F8E0 Error – (Steam models) Steam valve fault.
- Check that water is getting to the steam valve, it may be blocked or restricted.
F8E1 Error – Water fill fault.
- Your Duet washer has tried to fill for 13 minutes but has not sensed any water entering the tub… Are your home valves turned on? Is the drain hose too far down the drain pipe? If the end of the drain hose is below the water level in the washer, water can siphon out as fast as it goes in. Check water valve electrical connections before changing out the valve.
F8E2 Error Dispenser fault.
- This means that the dispenser motor which directs fill water to the appropriate dispenser area is not moving properly. Take the top off and run the Duet Washer Quick Diagnostic Test, C03 checks the Duet washer’s dispensing system.
F8E3 Error – Overflow fault.
- If this was real you are probably already aware of it… but hopefully your Duet washer’s computer brain saved the day and drained the water out before your floor was ruined. If you get this error…
1. check that the washer’s water valves are closing all the way and water is not filling the tub when it shouldn’t be. If water is slowly filling the tub even when the washer is unplugged you need to replace the washer fill valves. If it’s filling quickly and it suddenly stops when you unplug the washer you may have a bad main control board.
2. Check that the drain pump is working properly.
3. Check the pressure sensor.
F8E4 Error – Flow meter fault.
- Not even 0.1 L of water has entered the tub from the first 30 seconds of the Duet Washer Quick Test… Is the water turned on?
F9E1 Error – Long drain fault.
- This is the most common Duet washer error code! The F9E1 long drain error is referring to duration, not length. If it takes longer than 8 minutes to drain your highly water efficient washer then ether the drain system is pugged up with who knows what or the drain pump is having a problem. The best way I have found to deal with the water when your washer’s drain pump isn’t working is to use a shop vac and pull from the drain hose. If that works the your pump is highly suspect. If it doesn’t work then you almost certainly have a clog in your Duet washer’s drain system and the pump may be okay.
Clear Stored Duet Error & Fault Codes
Not all washer made by Whirlpool have the ability to clear error code memory. Thankfully this style does… Once you are in the Duet washer’s diagnostic mode and have recorded any errors that the washer has in it’s little computer brain, press and hold the 3rd button used to enter diagnostics for 5 seconds…
Like it never happened : )
Whirlpool Built Top Loading Direct Drive Washer Repair Guide
This washer repair guide is for washers built by Whirlpool before 2007
For the two newer styles of Whirlpool built top loading washers take a look at these repair guides.
- Make sure the washing machine’s front legs are installed. (This will make removing and reinstalling the washer cabinet much easier.)
- Remove the console screws or release console clip, depending on your washer style.
- Unplug the washer’s lid switch.
- Remove the washing machine’s cabinet clips.
- Tip the washer cabinet off to the front.
- Nothing is better than good observation skills!
With the washer cabinet removed it will be easier to see what you are dealing with!
Opening A Whirlpool Washer
The top portion of a two part washer agitator should turn freely only in the clockwise direction.
If the top parts of the washer’s agitator spins freely in both directions,
the 4 agitator lock cams “Agitator Dogs” are probably worn out.
To replace the washer agitator lock cams…
- Remove the washer agitator bolt. (Usually a 7/16″ head on some Kenmore washers a ½” socket receiver is used.)
- The “dogs” should have small teeth on their outside edge to engage the inner wall of the washer agitator.
- Replace the washer agitator dogs as a set.
- Reinstall the washer agitator.
Whirlpool Washer Agitator Repair
The Lid Switch
- Older washers will agitate but not spin with the lid open.
- Newer washers will not agitate or spin with a broken lid switch.
- Listen for the faint click of the washer lid switch or test with a voltmeter.
- Hinge activated switches can be replaced from the top without washer cabinet removal.
- Older styles require cabinet removal
- If the washer lid switch appears to be unbroken and functioning, look closely for a problem with your washer lid hinge or lid plunger.
- The timer is rarely the cause of problems on these washers. The washer timer is expensive and commonly misdiagnosed.
- To accurately check the timer you must check voltage output with a voltmeter.
- Over flowing washers are more often caused by a hole in the pressure hose (rodents) than by a faulty pressure-sensing switch.
- The water valve should open when supplied with 120 volts. How to use a voltmeter
- The valve solenoid should open and close completely.
- The valve receives power from the timer through the temperature switch and pressure switch.
- An in line bimetal thermostat is used to break power to the washer’s valve solenoids and regulate temperatures.
- The pump is the most common cause of a leak for this style of washing machine.
- If the pump is fused to the motor shaft, remove the motor with the pump attached.
- Strike the washer pump from behind to free it from the motor.
- Sometimes the pump blockage can be cleared and reinstalled.
- A broken washer motor coupling is the most common problem with this style of washing machine.
- The most common symptoms are a distinct noise as well as the washer not spinning. (Sometimes not agitating in later stages.)
- When installing the new coupling, be careful not to strike too hard. (This can cause damage to the motor or start transmission oil leaks.)
- Test the motor by using your voltmeter to check for power.
- Measure for 120 volts AC from the power supply wire to the white wire. How to read a wire diagram.
- To access the drive system you must first remove the agitator and tub nut beneath the washer agitator.
- Very wet clothes at the end of the spin cycle points to the washer clutch slipping.
- Agitating while spinning (tangled clothes) requires the replacement of the transmission.
- The clutch pads need to be clean of all oil and debris.
- Don’t forget to reinstall the clutch spacer ring.
- A broken rear suspension spring will allow the tub to move to far forward and water to spill behind the washer tub while filling.
- Suspension springs are almost never the cause of an off-balance spin cycle. (Make sure you are washing similar items. For example, not all T-shirts with one towel.)
- To replace the inner tub, remove the cabinet, agitator, and hub ring.
- Make sure the washer’s legs are level and the frame is not bent.