Samsung Dryer Repair Dryer Noise

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Samsung Dryer Repair

Samsung Dryer Repair
Dryer Noise Repair

Samsung dryers are famous for several problems. One of the most common Samsung dryer repair I end up doing usually begin with the complaint
“My Samsung dryer is making a lot of noise.”
Samsung dryer noise problems can only be caused by a few dryer parts. Even though Samsung dryers look fancy and can be expensive, they’re fairly simple dryers. A squealing, grinding, or thumping sound can only because to buy one or more of the following dryer parts.

Samsung Dryer Repair -Noise Related Parts-Samsung Dryer Repair Bad Pulley

1. Samsung Dryer Repair -Belt Tension Pulley-

The Samsung dryers belt pulley is a small wheel at the end of the lever arm that keeps tension on the dryer belt, allowing it to grip the dryer drum and dryer motor. This Samsung dryer repair becomes necessary when the wheel begins to drag on the lever arm shaft and squeak, eventually leading to the wheel locking up completely and breaking the dryer belt. Once the dryer belt breaks the dryer will no longer start because the dryer belt switch opens keeping electricity for reaching the dryer’s motor.

2. Samsung Dryer Repair -Drum Support Rollers-

The drum of a Samsung dryer is supported by for dryer drum rollers allowing for smooth rotation under the weight of a load of clothing. Samsung Dryer rollers can begin to drag on the roller shaft leading to a squeaky dryer. Dryer noises like thumping and grinding can also because by a bad Samsung Dryer support roller.

3. Samsung Dryer Repair – Blower Wheel-Samsung Dryer Repair

Samsung dry repairs including the blower wheel are rare, in are usually very easy to identify without even opening the dryer. The blower wheel is the fastest moving part in a Samsung dryer, therefore if you are experiencing a very fast ticking clicking or grinding noise you likely have an object that is worked its way next to the dryer’s blower wheel. Humming noises when the dryer should be working I Most often a bad Samsung dryer motor which is, unfortunately, all too common. However, and object jammed in the dryers blower wheel can have the same effect.

4. Samsung Dryer Repair – Motor-

Samsung dryer motors are more common than most dryers have a problem. However, bad Samsung dryer motors are still rare. The Symptoms of a bad motor are most often stopping shortly after starting not working again until the dryer has had a chance to cool off. In addition, bad dryer motors may just make a humming sound when you try to start the dryer. Test: (don’t hurt yourself, attempt to this at your own risk.) Tape the door switch closed and give the dryer drum some help with a push while trying to start the dryer. If the dryer runs you almost certainly have a bad Samsung dryer motor.

5. Samsung Dryer Repair -Dryer Drum-Samsung Dryer Repair Broken Belt

Samsung dryer drums have been known to crack at the drum weld leading to thumping noises and broken dryer drum rollers. To determine if your Samsung dryer has broken drum, Open the top and rotate the drum until you see the drum weld. Samsung dryer drums most often break on this weld point, at the front or rear roller indentation. Unfortunately, as of the writing of this article, Samsung has not recalled any of their dryers for this problem and a replacing the dryer drum is a fairly expensive Samsung Dryer repair.

6. Samsung Dryer Repair -Dryer Drum Felts-

The last possible cause for you to be reading the Samsung dryer repair article instead of doing something fun. The Samsung dryers drum slides on two felt strips located on the front and the back of the dryer drum. These felt bands act as an air seal and also allow the drum to slide freely while being supported by the drum rollers. Bad Samsung dryer felts are often the cause of grinding noises and rust marks on the clothing. Bad Samsung dryer felts also result in large amounts of lint collecting inside the dryer.   Lint buildup is a common problem in many dryer styles.  Dryer lint is the most common cause of dryer fires, so it needs to be diagnosed and corrected promptly.

Samsung Dryer Repair

Samsung Dryer Repair

In conclusion, I hope this Samsung Dryer repair article was helpful in discovering your dryer’s problem. You can find more in depth repair help with each Samsung dryer part through the following links.

Gas Dryer Repair – Dryer Won’t Start or Makes a Noise

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Gas Dryer Repair

Dryer Repair
Gas Dryer Won’t Start or Dryer Noise

Thermal FuseStart Switch| Timer | Motor | Temperature Switch | Blower | Belt | Belt SwitchDoor Switch | Drum Bearing | Belt Pulley | Drum Support | Air Flow | Dryer Noises

 

Gas Dryer Repair – Possible causes
“Gas Dryer won’t start” or “Gas Dryer won’t turn on.”

Gas Dryer Thermal Fuse:

dryer thermal fuseThe dryer’s thermal fuse is a non-resettable safety fuse that is designed to break electrical contact to the dryer’s burner if the dryer becomes too hot.  This fuse will often burn out due to clogged dryer ducting or a defective cycling thermostat.  The thermal fuse is the most common cause when a dryer has no heat.

Dryer Symptoms: On a gas dryer the dryer will not start. However, in electric dryers, the dryer won’t heat.
Test: How-To Test A Dryer Fuse Videos.

Disconnect all connecting wires and check for continuity across the two wire contacts. There should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).

Gas Dryer Start Switch:dryer start switch
The dryer’s start switch is a momentary contact push switch that allows electricity to energize the motor.  Once the motor has begun to spin, an expanding contact within the motor, called a centrifugal switch, expands to maintain contact after the start switch has been released.  Some models that have a “finish guard” or “wrinkle prevent” option will automatically start the dryer from time to time after the dry cycle has ended to prevent the clothes within the dryer drum from becoming wrinkled. These start switches have an internal solenoid to activate the switch automatically without it needing to be manually pushed. This style of dryer start switch will have three or four contacts instead of two.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer won’t start.
Test: How-To Test A Clothes Dryer Start Switch Video.

Remove all connected wires and check for continuity across the two main terminals. While pressing the switch, there should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).  Three-wire dryer start switches can be checked in the same way. Look at your wire diagram or a chart on the switch for test points.  The switch itself can be described in the same way as the above style, but the secondary coil contacts should give some resistance to activate the switch.

 Gas Dryer Timer: dryer timer
The dryer’s timer routes electricity to the correct dryer components or system at the proper time.  Timers are expensive, rarely fail, and are often misdiagnosed. The timer should be allowing electricity to flow to the dryer’s burner and motor when needed.
Dryer Symptoms: Dryer won’t heat, dryer won’t turn on, or dryer won’t turn off.
Test: Use your dryer’s wiring diagram to check for voltage being supplied to the heating circuit or motor circuit.

Door Switch:
dryer door switchThe dryer’s door switch senses if the door is open or closed.  When the door is closed the switch will close, allowing power to circulate through the rest of the circuit.  When the dryer door is open the switch will open, breaking electrical contact to the neutral connection of the circuit and stopping the flow of electricity.  Some door switches are “single pole double throw” meaning that when the door is opened the dryer’s main component circuit is open, but the dryer’s drum light is energized.  Most often the actuator arm of this switch will physically break off. However, sometimes the switch will break internally with no external indicators.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer won’t start.
Test: How-To Test A Dryer Door Switch Video.

Remove all connecting wires and check for continuity across the switch’s primary component circuit. There should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).

Gas Dryer Motor: 
dryer motorThe dryer motor is used to turn the dryer drum and blower.  The dryer motor also completes an electrical circuit. Once the motor has begun to spin, an expanding contact within the motor called a centrifugal switch expands to maintain contact after the start switch has been released.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer won’t start or will stop and only start after cooling down.
Test: A motor can be checked for resistance across the start windings and main windings. The proper resistance levels and test points can often be found in your dryer’s wire diagram. In some cases, a large amount of lint can collect on the motor causing it to overheat.  In other cases, the contacts to the motor may become loose and not allow electricity to enter or leave the motor circuit. This can cause the motor not to run or other components to not work properly. If you have a “dead” motor, you should also check the door switchbelt switch (some models), and timer before replacing the motor.

Gas Dryer Repair – Possible causes
“Gas Dryer Noises”

[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]Gas Dryer Blower:
dryer blowerDryers use a blower wheel to move air across the dryer’s heat source and through the dryer’s drum. Airflow is extremely important for a dryer to operate properly.  Air that is saturated with evaporated water must be removed from the dryer’s drum for more evaporation to occur.  Not all blower wheels are the same, even though they all perform the same function.  Fast clicking or buzzing noises are often an indicator that some object is grinding against the blower wheel as it turns.  In some cases the blower’s connection to the motor shaft may weaken, causing the blower to rattle and shake, especially when you first open the door to stop the dryer. This can also reduce the speed at which the blower spins, cutting airflow and increasing the time required to dry a load of clothes.

How-to Replace Dryer Blower Wheel Videos

dryer belt

Belt:
The belt transfers the power generated by the motor to the drum, enabling it to tumble.  Belt sizes and styles are model specific.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer won’t start or will run but not tumble.
Test: Physically inspect the belt for signs of cracking or burning.

Dryer Belt Installation Help By Brand

Belt Switch:
Some dryer models use a belt switch attached to the belt tension pulley, which will open if the dryer’s belt breaks, not allowing the dryer to operate.  Symptoms of a broken belt are similar to that of a broken door switch. The dryer will not start or stops suddenly in the middle of a dry cycle.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer won’t start.
Test: How-To Test A Clothes Dryer Belt Switch Videos.

Remove all connecting wires to the belt switch and test for continuity across the switch terminals. There should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).

 

Belt Tension Pulley: 
The belt pulley (also called the idler pulley) keeps tension on the belt, creating the smalldryer belt pulley amount of friction necessary for the belt to grip the motor and the drum.  Dryer manufacturers have used a variety of belts and pulley designs through the years. Most methods of belt/pulley installation can be found on the dryer pulley installation page.  The tension pulley can be responsible for some squeaking noises as well as causing the belt to burn. Other possible causes of these same symptoms could be drum supports or any component that would make it difficult for the drum to rotate freely.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer will squeak, sometimes leading to dryer won’t start if the dryer belt breaks.

Drum Bearing: dryer drum bearing

The dryer’s drum can be supported by several methods. Some dryers use a rear drum bearing to support the weight of the dryer drum and wet clothing. Others use nylon or felt to pad the contact points between the dryer’s moving and stationary parts. These bearings can wear out and cause squeaking and scraping noises. In extreme cases, where loud dryer noises have been ignored for extended periods of time, the motor may no longer be able to turn the drum, and a humming sound will replace the grinding. Allowing grinding and squeaking noises to continue without repair can significantly increase the cost of repair.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer will make a squeaking or grinding noise.

Drum Support:
dryer drum rollersDryers use several different methods and components to support the drum and allow it to rotate with ease.  Most designs have a series of rollers that hold the drum in position and a felt material that reduces friction and creates a light air seal for proper airflow.  Some manufacturers, such as General Electric and Frigidaire, use a single ball bearing that is mounted to the back of the dryer drum.  This bearing turns within a lubricated nylon cradle mounted to the dryer’s stationary rear bulkhead.  Some dryer models simply have pads that resist friction to support the drum and allow rotation.  Any of these supporting methods can wear out over time and cause squeaking and grinding noises.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer squeaking or other dryer noise.
Test: Visual inspection of all points of contact between the moving drum and fixed points is the best way to determine if one or more components need replacement.

Dryer Won’t Turn On

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how dryers work

Dryer Won’t Turn On

It’s laundry day, your heart overflows with joy. Until you press the start button only to discover the deafening sound of silence. The dryer won’t turn on. Really?! Darkness falls heavy upon your laundry room.

  Good news!  First of all clothes dryers are relatively simple machines. You can check a few things to figure out what’s wrong with your dryer hopefully.  At the very least you will likely have a good idea why your dryer won’t turn on by the end of this article. First, let’s outline the possible causes why your dryer won’t turn on.

  Dryer won’t turn on – possible causes in order of likelihood

  1. Because it has no electricity, the dryer won’t turn on. 
  2. The dryer won’t turn on because the dryer door is open or the dryer door switch is not working.
  3. The dryer belt broke so that the dryer won’t turn on. (Some dryer models have a belt switch)
  4. Your dryer won’t turn on because some safety component like a thermal fuse inside the dryer is Open.
  5. The dryer won’t turn on because the dryer’s control board or timer isn’t sending power to the motor.
  6. Your dryer won’t turn on because the start button is faulty.
  7. The dryer won’t turn on because the motor has a problem.

That’s about it, regardless of if your dryer is gas powered or fully electric your dryer won’t turn on for one of these seven reasons.  How Dryers Work
On that note let’s clarify your dryer symptoms. A dryer won’t turn on VS.  A dryer won’t start.

A Dryer Won’t Turn On

(There is no sign of power. No drum light, no control lights, no sounds from the timer of any kind.)
VS.

Your Dryer Won’t Start

(There are signs of power, but the dryer won’t start.) If your dryer has power and won’t start, you can skip past all the plug testing stuff and get down to the dryer timer, belt switch, door switch, and thermal limiter testing section. Dryer Won’t Start – Advanced Troubleshooting

So we have established that your dryer appears to have no power and your dryer won’t turn on.
To discover why your dryer won’t turn on as quickly as possible and save you a bunch of troubleshooting time and frustration. I’m going to ask a few questions and jump you along this dryer troubleshooting guide with links.

Your dryer has a timer knob that you turn to select your dryer’s cycle?

Or

Your dryer has a control panel with buttons that you press to choose the dry cycle and start the dryer?

Dryer Won’t Turn On – Mechanical Timer

QUESTION: Is your dryer gas or electric?

My Dryer has a Gas line and heats with a flame.

My Dryer is Electric; it has a large plug supplying power.

Dryer Won’t Turn On – (Gas Dryer With Mechanical Timer)

Now let’s get to the bottom of why your gas dryer won’t turn on

Start with the easy stuff first. Is electricity present at the dryer’s power outlet?  Because your dryer is gas, you should have a regular wall plug that you can plug a light into for a test.

Did the light work?

NO: I do not have power at the dryer’s wall plug.

Try resetting the home breaker switch for the dryer outlet and try again.  If your wall socket does not have power, the dryer won’t turn on. The receptacle needs to be your focus. You could have a bad home outlet, a bad wire connection in the wall or at the socket, or a bad house breaker switch. It sounds like a home issue. Try this link for more troubleshooting help (Troubleshooting home electrical problems)

YES: I have power at the dryer’s wall plug.

Let’s check a few more easy things to discover why your dryer won’t turn on.

The Dryer Door Switch:   Open the dryer door and look for a button or switch lever. Depending on your dryer brand and style there are several options for door switch style and placement, the dryer door switch must actuate when you close the door for the dryer to turn on.  When you locate it try pressing it manually, you should feel a firm click. (The only way to eliminate the door switch as a cause of your dryer not turning on is to check it with a multimeter for continuity. However, in general, if it feels solid it’s probably not your dryer’s problem.)

Was the door switch the reason your dryer wouldn’t turn on? Congratulations you figured out why your dryer wouldn’t start! Please remember to like ApplianceAssistant on Facebook and post a comment!  Find your dryer door switch

The Dryer Timer: Turn the dryer’s timer knob to a cycle where the dryer would usually turn on, and put your ear down my the timer. Do you hear anything?  If you do, then we can assume that the timer is getting power and is advancing. Let’s do one more quick test. Set the dryer’s timer knob where it’s on a number or position marked on the dryer console, and take a break for 10 to 15 minutes. You’re working hard, and it’s break time! Break time is over. Did the dryer timer move?

YES: The dryer timer is moving.

We have gone through the primary reasons why your dryer won’t turn on.  We know that your dryer has electricity, we also know that the door switch is working and that the dryer’s timer is moving forward in the cycle time. The next most likely reasons for your dryer to not start is a broken belt or bad thermal safety fuse. However, it could also be a bad dryer timer or motor. If you intend to go beyond this point, troubleshooting why your dryer won’t turn on you will need some basic tools, a multimeter and some idea of how to test for continuity. If you don’t know how to use a multimeter and want to continue troubleshooting your dryer, read How to Use a Multimeter  If your good with that click here Dryer Won’t Start – Advanced Troubleshooting

NO: The dryer timer is not moving.

Let’s check the dryer’s timer knob. A broken timer knob is a common reason why your dryer won’t turn on, especially on GE dryers! Pull the knob of the dryer’s timer shaft and look for a crack or some weak point on the dryer knob that would keep it from being able to turn the timer shaft.  On most dryers, the flat side of the dryer’s timer shaft should point to the same place as the knob indicator line. Is the flat D side of the dryer timer shaft directed to an OFF position or a RUN position?  If the timer is in an is in the OFF position, carefully use pliers to turn the timer shaft to a start position. You don’t want to damage the timer shaft more. Now hold your breath and give it a whirl. Did that fix it?

YES: Congratulations you figured it out! Please remember to like ApplianceAssistant on Facebook and post a comment! Find Your Dryer Knob

NO: If you intend to go beyond this point with troubleshooting why your dryer won’t turn on you will need some basic tools, a multimeter and some idea of how to test for continuity and voltage. If you don’t know how to use a multimeter and want to continue troubleshooting your dryer, read these articles first. How to Use a Multimeter also How to Read Wire Diagrams Because from here forward I will be talking like you know how to use a multimeter and also follow a wiring diagram.

Once you have a handle on that jump here, Dryer Won’t Start – Advanced Troubleshooting

Dryer Problem Sounds

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dryer repair noise

Clothes Dryer Repair
Noises & Sounds

dryer noises

Clothes dryers are simple appliances made of only a few moving parts that can rub, grind, hum, thump, squeak, or squeal. Most clothes dryer noises and sounds are easy to recognize and point to a specific problem.  Some appliance repair technicians can correctly diagnose a problem after listening to a dryer noise or sound for only a moment. The key is to know what you are listening to. Is it a fast ticking or clicking noise? Is your clothes dryer making a slower rhythmic grinding noise? It’s handy to know that dryer drums have a seam where the sheet metal is rolled and connected; a slower rhythmic clicking noise is almost always caused by the dryer drum in some way. While a fast and constant clicking noise is usually the dryer’s blower wheel. Click on a speaker to hear some common dyer sounds, after you have identified you dryer’s noise you will have a much better idea of where to look to fix the problem.

Troubleshooting Washer Problem Noises


A Healthy Dryer

To know if something sounds wrong with your dryer you need a point of reference. Listen to the soothing sounds of problem free evaporation!


Coins In The Dryer’s Drum Baffle

This common clicking sound was recorded with a few coins inside the dryer’s drum fins, also called “baffles”

Open the dryer and remove the screws that pass through the dryers drum attaching the fins. Now you can clear those noisy coins, and if you’re lucky find a lint ball or two.


Drum Rub

This is the scraping sound of the dryer side rubbing against the rotating drum. Heavy objects pressing against the dryer can cause this noise.

Opening the dryer and flexing the side of the cabinet away from the drum will stop the grinding noise.


Pencil Stopping The Dryer’s Blower

This loud banging sound is a dryer with a pencil in the blower. Objects can pass into the blower housing through holes in the dryer drum or through the dryer’s lint trap.  This was recorded as the dryer was first starting.


Stuff In The Dryer’s Blower Housing

If the dryer blower is not jammed completely by an object it may cause a fast ticking, clicking, or buzzing sound. Sometimes the housing itself may become bent and cause a similar noise as it rubs against the dryer’s blower wheel.

How Electric Dryer Parts Work

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Dryer Heating Element

How Electric Dryer Parts Work

This page provides a description as well as simple testing methods for each of the parts and components related to an electric dryer.  All tests should be preformed with the dryer unplugged and all wires connected to the part being tested unplugged.
(Note: Label all terminals and connecting wires before disconnecting them for proper reinstallation.)

Click Here For Gas Dryer Parts & Troubleshooting Help

 

Thermal Fuse | Hi-Limit Thermostat | Thermal Cut-Off | Cycling Thermostat | Thermostat Heater | Start Switch |TimerMotor | Temperature Switch | Heating Element | Blower | Belt | Belt Switch | Door Switch | Drum Bearing | Belt Pulley | Drum Support | Thermistor | Moisture Sensor | Air Flow

Thermal Fuse:
dryer thermal fuseThe dryer’s thermal fuse is a non-resettable safety fuse that is designed to break electrical contact to the dryer’s heater if the dryer becomes too hot.  This fuse will often burn out due to clogged dryer ducting or a defective cycling thermostat.  The thermal fuse along with a broken door switch is the most common cause of electric dryers that will not start.

Test: How-To Test A Dryer Fuse Video.

Disconnect all connecting wires and check for continuity across the two wire contacts. There should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).

Hi-Limit Thermostat:
The hi-limit thermostat is a safety switch that will break dryer thermostatelectrical contact to the dryer’s Heating Element if it senses that the dryer has become too hot.  The hi-limit thermostat will cycle the dryer’s burner or heater off if the ducting has become clogged blocking proper airflow.

Symptoms are usually a very short heating cycle with a low drum temperature, or no heat at all.  The hi-limit thermostat is a fairly reliable dryer component and is rarely the cause of dryer heating problems.

Test: Disconnect all connecting wires and check for continuity across the hi-limit thermostat or sensor set.

 

Thermal Cut-Off:

dryer thermal cut-offThe dryer’s thermal cut-off is similar to the thermal fuse and the high limit thermostat. It will break electrical contact to the dryer’s burner or heating element if it senses that the dryer is reaching an unsafe temperature. The thermal cut-off is a set of two thermostats, one of which will not reset once cool. The thermal cut-off needs to be replaced as a set. If this set of dryer parts fails you will need to check your dryer and home ducting for clogging. And check to make sure that the dryer’s cycling thermostat is operating properly. This type of safety thermostat does not just fail for no reason. If the non-resetable fuse has blown out, you need to check and clean your ducting!

Test: Disconnect all connecting wires and check for continuity across the terminals. The thermal cut-off should be closed (allowing current to flow) at room temperature.

Cycling Thermostat:
dryer thermostatThe cycling thermostat is responsible for cycling the dryer’s heat source on and off to keep a target temperature, set at the timer or with a temperature selection switch.  The dryer’s cycling thermostat is a very reliable bi-metal thermostat that rarely fails.  This thermostat is normaly closed, allowing electricity to flow freely. When the dryer heats up it will open, breaking electrical contact to the dryer’s heat source and allowing the drum temperature to drop slightly, causing the thermostat to close again and reenergizing the dryer’s heat source.

The thermostat’s operating temperature range is identified on the part with an “L” followed by the temperature. For example, L130 would open (cycling the dryer’s heat off) at 130ºF.  A dash followed by another number, for example L155-10, would mean that the dryer thermostat would close after having cooled 10ºF.  Faulty cycling thermostat symptoms could take the form of very high dryer temperatures, blown out thermal fuses, or no heat.  The cycling thermostat works in connection with a thermostat heater to achieve lower dryer temperatures, such as low and medium heat settings.

Test: Remove all connecting wires and test for continuity. There should be no resistance measured when the dryer is cool (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).  Cycling temperatures can be roughly calculated with a meat thermometer held next to the dryer’s exhaust duct. As the dryer heat source is cycled on and off, temperatures can be observed.

Dryer Repair Videos

Thermostat Heater:dryer thermostat heater
The thermostat heater is often located within the cycling thermostat. However, it may sometimes be a separate component mounted to the dryer’s cycling thermostat. Depending on the dryer’s temperature setting, more or less voltage is supplied to this heater. Low settings supply more voltage and create more heat, while medium settings supply slightly less voltage, generating less heat. High heat settings will not energize the thermostat heater at all.  In this way the thermostat is tricked into thinking that the dryer is hotter than it actually is, so it opens at a lower drum temperature.  Problems with this system can occur when the temperature selection switch fails to send the proper amount of voltage to the thermostat heater, or the heater itself fails to heat the thermostat.

 

Test: Remove all connecting wires and check for resistance across the heater contacts. Approximately 3200-4000 ohms of resistance should be measured.

Start Switch:dryer start switch
The dryer’s start switch is a momentary contact push switch that allows electricity to energize the motor.  Once the motor has begun to spin, an expanding contact within the motor, called a centrifugal switch, expands to maintain contact after the start switch has been released.  Some models that have a “finish guard” or “wrinkle prevent” option will automatically start the dryer from time to time after the dry cycle has ended to prevent the clothes within the dryer drum from becoming wrinkled. These start switches have an internal solenoid to activate the switch automatically without it needing to be manually pushed. This style of dryer start switch will have three contacts instead of two.

Test: How-To Test A Clothes Dryer Start Switch Videos.

Remove all connected wires and check for continuity across the two main terminals. While pressing the switch, there should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).  Three-wire dryer start switches can be checked in the same way. Look at your wire diagram or a chart on the switch for test points.  The switch itself can be described in the same way as the above style, but the secondary coil contacts should give some resistance to activate the switch.

 

Timer: dryer timer
The dryer’s timer routes electricity to the correct dryer components or system at the proper time.  Timers are expensive, rarely fail, and are often misdiagnosed. The timer should be allowing electricity to flow to the dryer’s heating element and motor when needed.

Test: Use your dryer’s wiring diagram to check for voltage being supplied to the heating circuit or motor circuit.

Motor: 
dryer motorThe dryer motor is used to create the circular motion required to turn the dryer drum and blower.  The dryer motor also completes an electrical circuit. Once the motor has begun to spin, an expanding contact within the motor called a centrifugal switch expands to maintain contact after the start switch has been released.

Test: A motor can be checked for resistance across the start windings and main windings. The proper resistance levels and test points can often be found in your dryer’s wire diagram. In some cases a large amount of lint can collect on the motor causing it to over-heat.  In other cases the contacts to the motor may become loose and not allow electricity to enter or leave the motor circuit. This can cause the motor to not run or other components to not work properly. If you have a “dead” motor you should also check the door switchbelt switch (some models), and timer before replacing the motor.

Temperature Selection Switch:
A clothes dryer’s temperature selection switch is a simple switch that will send electrical current to the thermostat heater through resistors. Resistors are usually located on the wires connecting to the switch, but sometimes within the switch itself depending on your model.  In this way the amount of current reaching the dryer’s thermostat heater is controlled. Some dryer models will use a thermistor and a separate solid-state control board to regulate the dryer’s drum temperature.  The dryer’s temperature selection switch rarely fails.

Test: Disconnect all connecting wires and check for continuity across the switch and all wire harness resistors.  If you have a solid-state control board, visually inspect it for burn marks.  Use your dryer’s wiring diagram for more accurate testing.

Heating Element:
dryer heating elementA heating element is used in electric dryers to generate the heat needed to dry your clothes.  Almost all heating elements require 240 Volts to function correctly.  Sometimes the heating element can short, allowing contact to ground.  If this does not trip the circuit breaker, it will effectively bypass the cycling thermostat and cause the heater to never cycle off as long as the dryer is running.

Test: How-To Test A Clothes Dryer Heating Element Video.

Remove all connecting wires and check for resistance across the two terminals of the heater. Some resistance should be detected allowing the heater to perform its work.  If an open circuit is detected, the heater needs to be replaced.  Also check each of the heater’s contacts to the outer containment unit of the heating element. There should be no connection. If the heater tests okay, check the connected thermostats for continuity and your home’s power supply for full 240-volt supply.

Blower:
Dryers use a blower wheel to move air across the dryer’s heat source and through the dryer’s drum. Airflow is extremely important for a dryer to operate properly.  Air that is dryer blowersaturated with evaporated water must be removed from the dryer’s drum for more evaporation to occur.  Not all blower wheels are the same, even though they all perform the same function.  Fast clicking or buzzing noises are often an indicator that some object is grinding against the blower wheel as it turns.  In some cases the blower’s connection to the motor shaft may weaken, causing the blower to rattle and shake, especially when you first open the door to stop the dryer. This can also reduce the speed at which the blower spins, cutting airflow and increasing the time required to dry a load of clothes.

How-to Replace Dryer Blower Wheel Videos

dryer belt

Belt:
The belt transfers the power generated by the motor to the drum, enabling it to tumble.  Belt sizes and styles are model specific.

Test: Physically inspect the belt for signs of cracking or burning.

Dryer Belt Installation Help By Brand

Door Switch:
dryer door switchThe dryer’s door switch senses if the door is open or closed.  When the door is closed the switch will close, allowing power to circulate through the rest of the circuit.  When the dryer door is open the switch will open, breaking electrical contact to the neutral connection of the circuit and stopping the flow of electricity.  Some door switches are “single pole double throw” meaning that when the door is opened the dryer’s main component circuit is open, but the dryer’s drum light is energized.  Most often the actuator arm of this switch will physically break off. However, sometimes the switch will break internally with no external indicators.

Test: How-To Test A Dryer Door Switch Video.

Remove all connecting wires and check for continuity across the switch’s main component circuit. There should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).

 

Belt Switch:
Some dryer models use a belt switch attached to the belt tension pulley, which will open if the dryer’s belt breaks, not allowing the dryer to operate.  Symptoms of a broken belt are similar to that of a broken door switch. The dryer will not start, or stops suddenly in the middle of a dry cycle.

Test: How-To Test A Clothes Dryer Belt Switch Video.

Remove all connecting wires to the belt switch and test for continuityacross the switch terminals. There should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).

Belt Tension Pulley: 
The belt pulley (also called the idler pulley) keeps tension on the belt, creating the smalldryer belt pulley amount of friction necessary for the belt to grip the motor and the drum.  Dryer manufacturers have used a variety of belts and pulley designs through the years. Most methods of belt / pulley installation can be found on the dryer pulley installation page.  The tension pulley can be responsible for some squeaking noises as well as causing the belt to burn. Other possible causes of these same symptoms could be drum supports, or any component that would make it difficult for the drum to rotate freely.

Dryer Belt Installation Help By Brand

Drum Bearing: dryer drum bearing

The dryer’s drum can be supported by a number of methods. Some dryers use a rear drum bearing to support the weight of the dryer drum and wet clothing. Others use nylon or felt to pad the contact points between the dryer’s moving and stationary parts. These bearings can wear out and cause squeaking and scraping noises. In extreme cases, where loud dryer noises have been ignored for long periods of time, the motor may no longer be able to turn the drum and a humming noise will replace the grinding. Allowing grinding and squeaking noises to continue without repair can greatly increase the cost of repair.

 

Drum Support:
dryer drum rollersDryers use several different methods and components to support the drum and allow it to rotate with ease.  Most designs have a series of rollers that hold the drum in position and a felt material that reduces friction and creates a light air seal for proper airflow.  Some manufacturers, such as General Electric and Frigidaire, use a single ball bearing that is mounted to the back of the dryer drum.  This bearing turns within a lubricated nylon cradle mounted to the dryer’s stationary rear bulkhead.  Some dryer models simply have pads that resist friction to support the drum and allow rotation.  Any of these supporting methods can wear out over time and cause squeaking and grinding noises.

Test: Visual inspection of all points of contact between the moving drum and stationary points is the best way to determine if one ore more components need replacement.

Thermistor:
A thermistor is a variable resistor that fluctuates the resistance it offers to a circuit dryer thermistorwith temperature change.  In this way the thermistor can communicate with a solid-state control board and give very accurate temperature readings.   The symptoms of a faulty thermistor could be an error code, incorrect dryer temperatures, or no heat. Thermistors have very specific resistance requirements that are usually listed on a technical sheet located somewhere inside your dryer.

Test: To test a thermistor, disconnect all connecting wires and perform a resistance check. The correct resistance value must be identified for your model and can usually be found on your dryer’s wiring diagram or technical guide, located somewhere inside the dryer.

Moisture Sensor:

There are two main types of moisture detection used in clothes dryers, electronic and automatic.  The electronic dryer moisture sensing system is the most accurate and uses two metal strips somewhere in the dryer drum. When the dryness detection strips are bridged by wet clothing a timer within the dryer’s control board is reset to zero. For “more dry” options the timer may be attempting to count to 70 while for “less dry” it may only be set to reach 30.  The automatic style of moisture detection uses the cycle thermostat to power the timers motor. In this way the timer motor only advances as the dryer is cycling the heat source. when the clothes in the dryer are wet this happens much more slowly and speeds up as the cloth dries. in this way the dryer can approximately detect when the clothes are dry.

Air Flow:
dryer air flowA dryer’s airflow system is as important as the heat that the dryer generates.  A dryer can be as hot as Hades, but if the moisture-saturated air is not removed from the area your clothing will not dry.  Clogged internal and home ducting is the number one cause of long dry times and poor drying performance.  Disconnecting the dryer’s duct and running a test load will often solve long dry times.  If the dryer now magically works, check the ducting for blockages.  Dryer manufacturers often suggest limiting duct length to no more than ten feet, each 90º angle in the homes ducting is like adding 5 feet to its length.  Vertical home ducting can also be a common source of clogged ducting and heating issues.