Samsung Dryer Repair Dryer Noise

Categories: Tags:
Samsung Dryer Repair

Samsung Dryer Repair
Dryer Noise Repair

Samsung dryers are famous for several problems. One of the most common Samsung dryer repair I end up doing usually begin with the complaint
“My Samsung dryer is making a lot of noise.”
Samsung dryer noise problems can only be caused by a few dryer parts. Even though Samsung dryers look fancy and can be expensive, they’re fairly simple dryers. A squealing, grinding, or thumping sound can only because to buy one or more of the following dryer parts.

Samsung Dryer Repair -Noise Related Parts-Samsung Dryer Repair Bad Pulley

1. Samsung Dryer Repair -Belt Tension Pulley-

The Samsung dryers belt pulley is a small wheel at the end of the lever arm that keeps tension on the dryer belt, allowing it to grip the dryer drum and dryer motor. This Samsung dryer repair becomes necessary when the wheel begins to drag on the lever arm shaft and squeak, eventually leading to the wheel locking up completely and breaking the dryer belt. Once the dryer belt breaks the dryer will no longer start because the dryer belt switch opens keeping electricity for reaching the dryer’s motor.

2. Samsung Dryer Repair -Drum Support Rollers-

The drum of a Samsung dryer is supported by for dryer drum rollers allowing for smooth rotation under the weight of a load of clothing. Samsung Dryer rollers can begin to drag on the roller shaft leading to a squeaky dryer. Dryer noises like thumping and grinding can also because by a bad Samsung Dryer support roller.

3. Samsung Dryer Repair – Blower Wheel-Samsung Dryer Repair

Samsung dry repairs including the blower wheel are rare, in are usually very easy to identify without even opening the dryer. The blower wheel is the fastest moving part in a Samsung dryer, therefore if you are experiencing a very fast ticking clicking or grinding noise you likely have an object that is worked its way next to the dryer’s blower wheel. Humming noises when the dryer should be working I Most often a bad Samsung dryer motor which is, unfortunately, all too common. However, and object jammed in the dryers blower wheel can have the same effect.

4. Samsung Dryer Repair – Motor-

Samsung dryer motors are more common than most dryers have a problem. However, bad Samsung dryer motors are still rare. The Symptoms of a bad motor are most often stopping shortly after starting not working again until the dryer has had a chance to cool off. In addition, bad dryer motors may just make a humming sound when you try to start the dryer. Test: (don’t hurt yourself, attempt to this at your own risk.) Tape the door switch closed and give the dryer drum some help with a push while trying to start the dryer. If the dryer runs you almost certainly have a bad Samsung dryer motor.

5. Samsung Dryer Repair -Dryer Drum-Samsung Dryer Repair Broken Belt

Samsung dryer drums have been known to crack at the drum weld leading to thumping noises and broken dryer drum rollers. To determine if your Samsung dryer has broken drum, Open the top and rotate the drum until you see the drum weld. Samsung dryer drums most often break on this weld point, at the front or rear roller indentation. Unfortunately, as of the writing of this article, Samsung has not recalled any of their dryers for this problem and a replacing the dryer drum is a fairly expensive Samsung Dryer repair.

6. Samsung Dryer Repair -Dryer Drum Felts-

The last possible cause for you to be reading the Samsung dryer repair article instead of doing something fun. The Samsung dryers drum slides on two felt strips located on the front and the back of the dryer drum. These felt bands act as an air seal and also allow the drum to slide freely while being supported by the drum rollers. Bad Samsung dryer felts are often the cause of grinding noises and rust marks on the clothing. Bad Samsung dryer felts also result in large amounts of lint collecting inside the dryer.   Lint buildup is a common problem in many dryer styles.  Dryer lint is the most common cause of dryer fires, so it needs to be diagnosed and corrected promptly.

Samsung Dryer Repair

Samsung Dryer Repair

In conclusion, I hope this Samsung Dryer repair article was helpful in discovering your dryer’s problem. You can find more in depth repair help with each Samsung dryer part through the following links.

Gas Dryer Repair – Dryer Won’t Start or Makes a Noise

Categories: Tags:
Gas Dryer Repair

Dryer Repair
Gas Dryer Won’t Start or Dryer Noise

Thermal FuseStart Switch| Timer | Motor | Temperature Switch | Blower | Belt | Belt SwitchDoor Switch | Drum Bearing | Belt Pulley | Drum Support | Air Flow | Dryer Noises

 

Gas Dryer Repair – Possible causes
“Gas Dryer won’t start” or “Gas Dryer won’t turn on.”

Gas Dryer Thermal Fuse:

dryer thermal fuseThe dryer’s thermal fuse is a non-resettable safety fuse that is designed to break electrical contact to the dryer’s burner if the dryer becomes too hot.  This fuse will often burn out due to clogged dryer ducting or a defective cycling thermostat.  The thermal fuse is the most common cause when a dryer has no heat.

Dryer Symptoms: On a gas dryer the dryer will not start. However, in electric dryers, the dryer won’t heat.
Test: How-To Test A Dryer Fuse Videos.

Disconnect all connecting wires and check for continuity across the two wire contacts. There should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).

Gas Dryer Start Switch:dryer start switch
The dryer’s start switch is a momentary contact push switch that allows electricity to energize the motor.  Once the motor has begun to spin, an expanding contact within the motor, called a centrifugal switch, expands to maintain contact after the start switch has been released.  Some models that have a “finish guard” or “wrinkle prevent” option will automatically start the dryer from time to time after the dry cycle has ended to prevent the clothes within the dryer drum from becoming wrinkled. These start switches have an internal solenoid to activate the switch automatically without it needing to be manually pushed. This style of dryer start switch will have three or four contacts instead of two.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer won’t start.
Test: How-To Test A Clothes Dryer Start Switch Video.

Remove all connected wires and check for continuity across the two main terminals. While pressing the switch, there should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).  Three-wire dryer start switches can be checked in the same way. Look at your wire diagram or a chart on the switch for test points.  The switch itself can be described in the same way as the above style, but the secondary coil contacts should give some resistance to activate the switch.

 Gas Dryer Timer: dryer timer
The dryer’s timer routes electricity to the correct dryer components or system at the proper time.  Timers are expensive, rarely fail, and are often misdiagnosed. The timer should be allowing electricity to flow to the dryer’s burner and motor when needed.
Dryer Symptoms: Dryer won’t heat, dryer won’t turn on, or dryer won’t turn off.
Test: Use your dryer’s wiring diagram to check for voltage being supplied to the heating circuit or motor circuit.

Door Switch:
dryer door switchThe dryer’s door switch senses if the door is open or closed.  When the door is closed the switch will close, allowing power to circulate through the rest of the circuit.  When the dryer door is open the switch will open, breaking electrical contact to the neutral connection of the circuit and stopping the flow of electricity.  Some door switches are “single pole double throw” meaning that when the door is opened the dryer’s main component circuit is open, but the dryer’s drum light is energized.  Most often the actuator arm of this switch will physically break off. However, sometimes the switch will break internally with no external indicators.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer won’t start.
Test: How-To Test A Dryer Door Switch Video.

Remove all connecting wires and check for continuity across the switch’s primary component circuit. There should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).

Gas Dryer Motor: 
dryer motorThe dryer motor is used to turn the dryer drum and blower.  The dryer motor also completes an electrical circuit. Once the motor has begun to spin, an expanding contact within the motor called a centrifugal switch expands to maintain contact after the start switch has been released.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer won’t start or will stop and only start after cooling down.
Test: A motor can be checked for resistance across the start windings and main windings. The proper resistance levels and test points can often be found in your dryer’s wire diagram. In some cases, a large amount of lint can collect on the motor causing it to overheat.  In other cases, the contacts to the motor may become loose and not allow electricity to enter or leave the motor circuit. This can cause the motor not to run or other components to not work properly. If you have a “dead” motor, you should also check the door switchbelt switch (some models), and timer before replacing the motor.

Gas Dryer Repair – Possible causes
“Gas Dryer Noises”

[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]Gas Dryer Blower:
dryer blowerDryers use a blower wheel to move air across the dryer’s heat source and through the dryer’s drum. Airflow is extremely important for a dryer to operate properly.  Air that is saturated with evaporated water must be removed from the dryer’s drum for more evaporation to occur.  Not all blower wheels are the same, even though they all perform the same function.  Fast clicking or buzzing noises are often an indicator that some object is grinding against the blower wheel as it turns.  In some cases the blower’s connection to the motor shaft may weaken, causing the blower to rattle and shake, especially when you first open the door to stop the dryer. This can also reduce the speed at which the blower spins, cutting airflow and increasing the time required to dry a load of clothes.

How-to Replace Dryer Blower Wheel Videos

dryer belt

Belt:
The belt transfers the power generated by the motor to the drum, enabling it to tumble.  Belt sizes and styles are model specific.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer won’t start or will run but not tumble.
Test: Physically inspect the belt for signs of cracking or burning.

Dryer Belt Installation Help By Brand

Belt Switch:
Some dryer models use a belt switch attached to the belt tension pulley, which will open if the dryer’s belt breaks, not allowing the dryer to operate.  Symptoms of a broken belt are similar to that of a broken door switch. The dryer will not start or stops suddenly in the middle of a dry cycle.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer won’t start.
Test: How-To Test A Clothes Dryer Belt Switch Videos.

Remove all connecting wires to the belt switch and test for continuity across the switch terminals. There should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).

 

Belt Tension Pulley: 
The belt pulley (also called the idler pulley) keeps tension on the belt, creating the smalldryer belt pulley amount of friction necessary for the belt to grip the motor and the drum.  Dryer manufacturers have used a variety of belts and pulley designs through the years. Most methods of belt/pulley installation can be found on the dryer pulley installation page.  The tension pulley can be responsible for some squeaking noises as well as causing the belt to burn. Other possible causes of these same symptoms could be drum supports or any component that would make it difficult for the drum to rotate freely.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer will squeak, sometimes leading to dryer won’t start if the dryer belt breaks.

Drum Bearing: dryer drum bearing

The dryer’s drum can be supported by several methods. Some dryers use a rear drum bearing to support the weight of the dryer drum and wet clothing. Others use nylon or felt to pad the contact points between the dryer’s moving and stationary parts. These bearings can wear out and cause squeaking and scraping noises. In extreme cases, where loud dryer noises have been ignored for extended periods of time, the motor may no longer be able to turn the drum, and a humming sound will replace the grinding. Allowing grinding and squeaking noises to continue without repair can significantly increase the cost of repair.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer will make a squeaking or grinding noise.

Drum Support:
dryer drum rollersDryers use several different methods and components to support the drum and allow it to rotate with ease.  Most designs have a series of rollers that hold the drum in position and a felt material that reduces friction and creates a light air seal for proper airflow.  Some manufacturers, such as General Electric and Frigidaire, use a single ball bearing that is mounted to the back of the dryer drum.  This bearing turns within a lubricated nylon cradle mounted to the dryer’s stationary rear bulkhead.  Some dryer models simply have pads that resist friction to support the drum and allow rotation.  Any of these supporting methods can wear out over time and cause squeaking and grinding noises.

Dryer Symptoms: The dryer squeaking or other dryer noise.
Test: Visual inspection of all points of contact between the moving drum and fixed points is the best way to determine if one or more components need replacement.

Dryer Won’t Turn On

Categories: Tags:
how dryers work

Dryer Won’t Turn On

It’s laundry day, your heart overflows with joy. Until you press the start button only to discover the deafening sound of silence. The dryer won’t turn on. Really?! Darkness falls heavy upon your laundry room.

  Good news!  First of all clothes dryers are relatively simple machines. You can check a few things to figure out what’s wrong with your dryer hopefully.  At the very least you will likely have a good idea why your dryer won’t turn on by the end of this article. First, let’s outline the possible causes why your dryer won’t turn on.

  Dryer won’t turn on – possible causes in order of likelihood

  1. Because it has no electricity, the dryer won’t turn on. 
  2. The dryer won’t turn on because the dryer door is open or the dryer door switch is not working.
  3. The dryer belt broke so that the dryer won’t turn on. (Some dryer models have a belt switch)
  4. Your dryer won’t turn on because some safety component like a thermal fuse inside the dryer is Open.
  5. The dryer won’t turn on because the dryer’s control board or timer isn’t sending power to the motor.
  6. Your dryer won’t turn on because the start button is faulty.
  7. The dryer won’t turn on because the motor has a problem.

That’s about it, regardless of if your dryer is gas powered or fully electric your dryer won’t turn on for one of these seven reasons.  How Dryers Work
On that note let’s clarify your dryer symptoms. A dryer won’t turn on VS.  A dryer won’t start.

A Dryer Won’t Turn On

(There is no sign of power. No drum light, no control lights, no sounds from the timer of any kind.)
VS.

Your Dryer Won’t Start

(There are signs of power, but the dryer won’t start.) If your dryer has power and won’t start, you can skip past all the plug testing stuff and get down to the dryer timer, belt switch, door switch, and thermal limiter testing section. Dryer Won’t Start – Advanced Troubleshooting

So we have established that your dryer appears to have no power and your dryer won’t turn on.
To discover why your dryer won’t turn on as quickly as possible and save you a bunch of troubleshooting time and frustration. I’m going to ask a few questions and jump you along this dryer troubleshooting guide with links.

Your dryer has a timer knob that you turn to select your dryer’s cycle?

Or

Your dryer has a control panel with buttons that you press to choose the dry cycle and start the dryer?

Dryer Won’t Turn On – Mechanical Timer

QUESTION: Is your dryer gas or electric?

My Dryer has a Gas line and heats with a flame.

My Dryer is Electric; it has a large plug supplying power.

Dryer Won’t Turn On – (Gas Dryer With Mechanical Timer)

Now let’s get to the bottom of why your gas dryer won’t turn on

Start with the easy stuff first. Is electricity present at the dryer’s power outlet?  Because your dryer is gas, you should have a regular wall plug that you can plug a light into for a test.

Did the light work?

NO: I do not have power at the dryer’s wall plug.

Try resetting the home breaker switch for the dryer outlet and try again.  If your wall socket does not have power, the dryer won’t turn on. The receptacle needs to be your focus. You could have a bad home outlet, a bad wire connection in the wall or at the socket, or a bad house breaker switch. It sounds like a home issue. Try this link for more troubleshooting help (Troubleshooting home electrical problems)

YES: I have power at the dryer’s wall plug.

Let’s check a few more easy things to discover why your dryer won’t turn on.

The Dryer Door Switch:   Open the dryer door and look for a button or switch lever. Depending on your dryer brand and style there are several options for door switch style and placement, the dryer door switch must actuate when you close the door for the dryer to turn on.  When you locate it try pressing it manually, you should feel a firm click. (The only way to eliminate the door switch as a cause of your dryer not turning on is to check it with a multimeter for continuity. However, in general, if it feels solid it’s probably not your dryer’s problem.)

Was the door switch the reason your dryer wouldn’t turn on? Congratulations you figured out why your dryer wouldn’t start! Please remember to like ApplianceAssistant on Facebook and post a comment!  Find your dryer door switch

The Dryer Timer: Turn the dryer’s timer knob to a cycle where the dryer would usually turn on, and put your ear down my the timer. Do you hear anything?  If you do, then we can assume that the timer is getting power and is advancing. Let’s do one more quick test. Set the dryer’s timer knob where it’s on a number or position marked on the dryer console, and take a break for 10 to 15 minutes. You’re working hard, and it’s break time! Break time is over. Did the dryer timer move?

YES: The dryer timer is moving.

We have gone through the primary reasons why your dryer won’t turn on.  We know that your dryer has electricity, we also know that the door switch is working and that the dryer’s timer is moving forward in the cycle time. The next most likely reasons for your dryer to not start is a broken belt or bad thermal safety fuse. However, it could also be a bad dryer timer or motor. If you intend to go beyond this point, troubleshooting why your dryer won’t turn on you will need some basic tools, a multimeter and some idea of how to test for continuity. If you don’t know how to use a multimeter and want to continue troubleshooting your dryer, read How to Use a Multimeter  If your good with that click here Dryer Won’t Start – Advanced Troubleshooting

NO: The dryer timer is not moving.

Let’s check the dryer’s timer knob. A broken timer knob is a common reason why your dryer won’t turn on, especially on GE dryers! Pull the knob of the dryer’s timer shaft and look for a crack or some weak point on the dryer knob that would keep it from being able to turn the timer shaft.  On most dryers, the flat side of the dryer’s timer shaft should point to the same place as the knob indicator line. Is the flat D side of the dryer timer shaft directed to an OFF position or a RUN position?  If the timer is in an is in the OFF position, carefully use pliers to turn the timer shaft to a start position. You don’t want to damage the timer shaft more. Now hold your breath and give it a whirl. Did that fix it?

YES: Congratulations you figured it out! Please remember to like ApplianceAssistant on Facebook and post a comment! Find Your Dryer Knob

NO: If you intend to go beyond this point with troubleshooting why your dryer won’t turn on you will need some basic tools, a multimeter and some idea of how to test for continuity and voltage. If you don’t know how to use a multimeter and want to continue troubleshooting your dryer, read these articles first. How to Use a Multimeter also How to Read Wire Diagrams Because from here forward I will be talking like you know how to use a multimeter and also follow a wiring diagram.

Once you have a handle on that jump here, Dryer Won’t Start – Advanced Troubleshooting

Whirlpool Duet Washer Diagnostics

Categories: Tags:
Appliance Repair Videos

Whirlpool Duet Washer Diagnostics

Duet Washer Diagnostics

Whirlpool In-Door Ice Maker Repair

Categories: Tags:
Whirlpool in-door ice system

Whirlpool In-Door Ice System Troubleshooting Guide

For general information visit the “How Ice Makers Work

 

Whirlpool in-door ice systemSo your ice maker’s slacking off again and your looking for some payback…well you’ve come to the right place.  On this page you will learn how to whip that lazy ice maker back into shape and have it pumping out cubes faster than a kid in a Rubik tournament!

The Whirlpool & Kitchen Aid in-door ice system is very nice design because it frees up a large amount of space in the freezer compartment and makes important job of dumping old ice much more convenient.  Mechanically, this is a Whirlpool modular ice maker with a few extra trim pieces, different fill tube location, and a set of control boards have replaced the bail arm switch.

One other important note… Whirlpool redesigned the optics portion of this system around 2002 so there are two different diagnostic methods depending on which set of boards are installed in your refrigerator, pre or post 2002 ice maker models.

 

Common Problem Links | Pre Op | Pre 2002 Diagnostic Tests
Post 2002 Diagnostic Tests | Ice Maker Removal | Ice Maker Test Points | Dispenser Parts | Dispenser Strip Circuits

Common Problems:

“My Icemaker is not producing Ice.”

“I can’t get any ice to come out of the dispenser.”

“There is a bunch of frost in the dispenser shoot and ice bin.”

“The bottom of my freezer is covered with ice.”

“There are little flakes of stuff in my ice.”

“The Ice bin is one big clump of ice.”

Pre-Op:

First thing is first! Lets not make more work for ourselves than we have to.

 “Work smarter not harder.”
–some smart guy-

Is the on of switch, located on the right side ice maker control slid to the on position?  An invisible beam of infrared light is sent across the top of the ice bin to detect if the bin is full of ice.  The on/off switch is a slide that will block the beam and stop ice production.

Is the ice bin full? Hmmm.

Could there be grime or frost on ether the emitter or receiver board windows that may block the light beam’s round trip?

Whirlpool & Kitchen Aid In-Door Ice System Technical Manual PDF

 

Ice Maker Optics Diagnostics

Pre 2002 Diagnostic Tests:

Note: The ice bin must be installed on the door to activate the left side flap, ice should not be over the top notches of the bin.  If you don’t get any response from the diagnostic test… wait 5 minutes then unplug the refrigerator for 10 seconds to reset the ice maker control board and try again.

Step 1. Open the freezer door (make sure that the freezer door has been closed for a minimum of 10 seconds prior to opening the door).

Step 2. Activate the door switch 3 times. Push the button in completely for 1 second each time.

Step 3. Close the freezer door for a minimum of 5 seconds for a maximum of 50 seconds.

Ice Maker Optics LEDStep 4. Open the freezer door and immediately view the diagnostics red status light next to the ice maker’s on/off switch.

Results:

-Two flashes repeated once means the ice maker’s optics are blocked or defective.

-A steady on light for 5 seconds means the ice maker’s optics boards are working properly.

-If there is no light try resetting the optics boards as in the note at the top of this section. If there is still no light you may need a new set of optics boards, or the LED light is out.

Boards purchased from this link have a 1 Year Return Policy! No questions asked, installed or not!

Post 2002 Diagnostic Tests:

Note: The ice bin must be installed on the door to activate the left side flap, ice should not be over the top notches of the bin.  If you don’t get any response from the diagnostic test… wait 5 minutes then unplug the refrigerator for 10 seconds to reset the ice maker control board and try again.

Step 1. Open the freezer door and observe the red status light next to the ice maker’s on/off switch.Optics Flap

Result:

You should see two flashes and a one second delay repeating. If there is no light your LED light may be out, you may have pre 2002 boards installed, or the optics boards need to be replaced.

Step 2. Close the left side flapper door and make sure you are not blocking the optics board’s light path.

Result:

The red status light should be steady on. If the light continues to flash, your optics are either blocked in some way or they need to be replaced.

Boards purchased from this link have a 1-year warranty, no questions asked, installed or not!

Ice Maker Removal:

This style of icemaker is mounted sideways at the top of the freezer compartment and is covered by a door flap. There is also a spring-loaded flap on the left side of the freezer that will open and block the emitter board whenever the freezer door is opened. This will break power to the ice maker whenever the door is opened and keep you from getting showered with freshly produced ice cubes when you’re grabbing some tasty treat.

Step 1. Unplug the refrigerator…Safety First! (Note: some tests may require electrical current. Proceed with caution and at your own risk.)

Step 2. Remove the ice maker cover by applying sideways pressure and pulling slightly.

Step 3. Remove one ¼” screw from that right bottom of the ice maker that secures the wire harness cover. Then remove the cover by pulling it toward the back of the freezer.

Ice Maker Tray TabsStep 4. Locate two plastic tabs on the bottom of the ice maker mounting bracket. Apply pressure to both tabs while pulling the ice maker forward.  You will feel some resistance from the water fill tube at the top of the ice maker, but fear not it’s flexible and will give.

Step5. Unplug the wire harness. You now have an ice maker in your hands… Now what? Take a look at “Ice Maker Test Points” for more testing help.

Ice Maker Parts:

The Whirlpool in-door ice system uses ice maker part#2198597 and part#W10190961 for 22cf. models

The Whirlpool modular ice maker mechanics are examined in detail at this link “Whirlpool modular icemaker” Note: the in-door ice system ice maker differs from the ice maker described in this video in the following ways: There are several additional trim pieces that direct air flow and direct ice into the door bin as it harvests.  It also has a slightly different fill cup for top fill vs. rear fill.

In that note the water supply tube which supplies water to the John Guest Fittingice maker from the freezer ceiling can be removed and cleared by following the steps below…

Step 1. Remove the ice maker.

Step 2. Disconnect the water supply tub from the back of the refrigerator at the “John Guest” disconnect fitting. (To release the tubing from the fitting press the tubing into the fitting while pressing and holding a small ring into the fitting. This will allow you to pull the tubing free from the fitting.)

Ice Maker Water SupplyStep 3. Pull the tubing out from the inside of the freezer compartment. After you have cleared the ice maker supply tube of any blockages reinstall the tubing by feeding it back through the hole in the ceiling of the freezer and reconnect to the John Guest fitting behind the refrigerator. (To reconnect the tubing press the tube back into the fitting and give it a little pull to seal.  Always triple check the connection for signs of leaking. It may take a few days for a leak to show itself because of the intermittent ice maker fill cycle.)

Dispenser Parts:

What if your ice maker is pumping out ice like a lover scorned but the dispenser just won’t put out…

There are quite a few elements that deliver ice from the bin to your glass so here is an overview of the process and the components involved.

When you press the paddle of your dispenser a mechanism opens the ice shoot door and a switch is closed that should energize a motor in the freezer door.  When the motor is activated it turns a drive shaft that connects to the bottom of your ice bin.  This causes the wavy arm in your ice maker bin to turn and push ice down through the open shoot for your icy refreshment…

Common Problems With The In-Door Ice Dispensing System:

“I can’t get any ice to come out of the dispenser.”

“I don’t hear the motor at all.”

Is the dispenser lock button on? Does your freezer light switch work? You may have a power supply problem in the dispenser switch pack or the motor has completely given up. Ice Dispenser Motor

(Shock Hazard! Voltage must be present for these tests.)You can check the motor for voltage by removing the motor cover at the bottom of that big blank bulge in your freezer door.  (Double check your wire diagram for test points and wire colors.) Your freezer door switch needs to be taped closed so that power is supplied to the circuit.  Then with the motor plugged in check for 115 ACV from the two center contacts. (Usually blue and white) when the ice dispenser paddle is depressed. Next check for VDC 115 across the two right most connections and the two left most connections (Orange/Blue to Pink/Black) and (Red/White to Brown/White) when the ice dispenser paddle is depressed, on both crushed and cubed settings.

Take a look at the dispenser strip circuits below.

“The motor just makes a humming noise.”

Remove the ice bin and also remove the bracket that holds the drive coupling from the motor into place.  Now pull the drive shaft up and out, close the door and try it again if the motor is still just humming you probably need to replace the dispensing motor. If that fixed it, check that the arm in the ice bin moves freely and look for anything that might cause the shaft to bind up.

“There is a bunch of frost in the dispenser shoot and ice bin.”

Frost in the ice shoot or bin almost always is a sign of an air leak. After all it’s an ice maker not a frost machine. You can check for air leaks by removing the ice bin and shining a flashlight down into the ice shoot, then look for light from the outside of the dispenser shoot.  You may also see a cylinder looking device attached to the dispenser door. This is a suction tube that has a plunger inside that slows the closing of the door for quiet operation.  If the door is not closing all the way you may try removing this device and scratching a line or two on the inside of the cylinder. This will allow the door to close more quickly, for a slightly stronger seal there will also be slightly more noise as the door is closing.(Tip: If you are going to attempt to repair or replace the ice dispenser door or dispenser switch move slow take pictures and don’t remove more parts than you must.)

“The Ice bin is one big clump of ice.”

This is actually fairly normal and the ice bin should be emptied of old ice on a regular basis to prevent damage to the ice bin. However, if the ice is freezing together very quickly (less than a week or two) you may have an air leak at the ice shoot door.  You can check for air leaks by removing the ice bin and shining a flashlight down into the ice shoot, then look for light from the outside of the dispenser shoot. You may also see a cylinder looking device attached to the dispenser door. This is a suction tube that has a plunger inside that slows the closing of the door for quiet operation.  If the door is not closing all the way you may try removing this device and scratching a line or two on the inside of the cylinder. This will allow the door to close more quickly, for a slightly stronger seal there will also be slightly more noise as the door is losing.(Tip: If you are going to attempt to repair or replace the ice dispenser door or dispenser switch move slow take pictures and don’t remove more parts than you must.)