Maytag Centennial Washer Components
Troubleshooting Common Maytag Centennial Washer Problems
Maytag Centennial Diagnostic Mode
Maytag Centennial Error Codes
MTW Maytag Centennial Model Washer Repair Guide

Always disconnect the washing machine’s power supply
before working on your washer!
Whirlpool Corp. released this belt driven Maytag Centennial washer in late 2010 as a lower cost energy saving washing machine. Most of these newer Maytag Centennial washing machines begin their model numbers with MVW. Earlier versions of the Maytag Centennial washing machines where well built but had very different washer mechanics, Those Centennial washer models usually start with MTW.
The repair guide for the direct drive washer models is here Maytag Centennial Direct Drive System Washer Repair Guide
Here is a list of some of the models for this Maytag Centennial belt drive washer repair guide… 

Obviously this causes some confusion when your looking for washer repair and diagnostic help! The best way to tell without looking under your washer’s skirt for a belt is a bank of 6 status lights on the console like the picture to the right. more expensive models may have a 7th “soak” or “prewash” light, but diagnostic, troubleshooting, and repair is the same.

I want to like this new style of Maytag Centennial washer… However, many of this washers mechanical and electrical parts are already developing a reputation for problems. In addition the Maytag Centennial washer is also very slow to fill and wash due to the load sensing process and has fairly noisy lock and motor functions compared with earlier washers that are no longer available.
Fortunately, if you can correctly diagnose your washer’s problem, most repairs on the new Maytag Centennial fairly simple do yourself!

Maytag Centennial Washer Diagnostic Mode & Tests

The washer’s diagnostic mode can be used to troubleshoot washer problems by viewing logged washer errors, performing an automatic diagnostic cycle, or manually turning on and off different washer parts to test for proper operation. Some versions of this washer type have a digital display that will show an error code, but most use the status lights on the washer console to flash a sequence that can then be interpreted into the code.

The “Fill” light or “Sensing” and “Soak” lights are “F” on the first part of the code The second “E” part of the code will not use the “Fill”, “Sensing”, or “Soak” Lights.

• The “wash” light is “8”
• The “rinse” light is “4”
• The “spin” light is “2”
• the “done” light is “1”

So you may see something like “sensing” (F) and “rinse”(4), “spin”(2), and “done”(1) flash. 4+2+1=7 so F7 Then “sensing”(E) and “done”(1) so E1
The code F7E1 is a sensor fault so you would want to check the washer sensor with your diagnostic test.

This is how you get into the washer’s diagnostic mode.

Turn the washer control dial at least 3 full rotations to the left like you were clearing a combination lock. Then rotate the knob 3 clicks to the right, one to the left, and one more to the right, with about a half second to one second between clicks. If you got it right all the lights on the washer console should light up and flash. If it didn’t work clear to the left again and focus on the time between clicks.

Once you have all the washer’s lights flashing you have 3 main options. You can select an automatic diagnostic cycle, manual diagnostics, or view stored error codes. It’s best to start with the error codes so you know what you are starting with, and you may create more with your diagnostic tests.

Rotate the knob to the right until only the “done” light is lit and press start.
The washer will then display any error codes that can be advanced by turning the washer’s cycle knob to the right. The washer stores the 4 most recent fault codes. If only the “fill” or “sensing” light is lit then you have reached the last fault code or there was nothing wrong with the washer detected by the control.

Next write down your codes and erase them by exiting the Centennial washer’s diagnostics. To exit the Maytag Centennial diagnostics press and hold the “start” button for about 3 seconds.(Again…This will erase error codes in the Centennial washer’s memory.)
Now you can run a Maytag Centennial automatic diagnostic washer cycle. You will need to start the diagnostics mode again, but this time turn the Centennial washer’s cycle knob right until only the “spin” light is lit and press “start”. The washer will do a quick cycle that will test all the washer functions. You can then go back all look for new fault codes to narrow down the washer’s problem.

This is as quick summery of the Maytag Centennial washer’s automatic diagnostic test and what lights are lit for each step. Note: you can advance each step manually by pressing the “start” button.

1. Centennial washer lid should loc =”done” + “lock”
2. Centennial washer cold valve should open =”spin” + “lock”
3. Centennial washer hot valve should open =”spin” + “done” + “lock”
4. Pause 5 seconds =”rinse” + “lock”
5. Pause 5 seconds =”rinse” + “done” + “lock”
6. Pause 5 seconds =”rinse” + “spin”+ “lock”
7. Centennial washer cold and hot water valves should open =”rinse” + “spin”+ “done” +”lock”
8. Centennial washer shifter should move to agitate position =”wash” + “lock”
9. Centennial washer should agitate =”wash” + “done” + “lock”
10. Centennial washer drain pump should run =”wash” + “spin” + “lock”
11. Centennial washer shifter should move to spin position =”wash” + “spin” + “done” + “lock”
12. Centennial washer should spin for 10 seconds =”wash” + “rinse” + “lock”
13. Centennial washer should coast to a stop for 30 to 45 seconds =”wash” + “rinse” + “done” + “lock”
14. Centennial washer lid lock should unlock in 1 second and not longer than 3 minutes=”wash” + “rinse” + “spin”

Maytag Centennial Washer Faults & Errors

1. Error F0 = no Centennial fault has been recorded.
2. Error F0E2 = Centennial washer drain problem, to much soap suds.
3. Error F0E4 = water during washer’s rinse cycle is more that 105º.
4. Error F0E5 = Centennial washer is off balance.
5. Error F1E1 = Centennial washer main control fault.
6. Error F1E2 = Centennial washer motor control fault. the motor control is integrated into the main washer control.
7. Error F2E1 = a Centennial washer control key has been pressed for more than 15 seconds.
8. Error F2E3 = mismatch of the washer’s main control and the washer’s user interface control.
9. Error F3E1 = Centennial washer pressure sensor fault.
10. Error F3E2 = Centennial water valve temperature sensor fault.
11. Error F5E1 = Centennial washer lid switch fault.
12. Error F5E2 = Centennial washer lid lock fault.
13. Error F5E3 = Centennial washer lid unlock fault.
14. Error F7E1 = Centennial washer basket speed sensor fault
15. Error F7E5 = Centennial washer shifter fault.
16. Error F7E6 = Centennial washer motor fault.
17. Error F7E7 = Centennial washer sensor thinks washer was unable to reach target spin speed.
18. Error F8E1 = Centennial washer pressure sensor thinks it is not filling or is taking too long to fill with water.
19. Error F8E3 = Centennial washer pressure sensor thinks that the washer has over filled with water.
20. Error F8E5 = Centennial Washer valve thermostat thinks the hot and cold water hoses are reversed.
21. Error F9E1 = the Centennial washer is taking to long to drain.

Centennial Washer Control

The control board (PCB) is the brains of the Centennial washer and is responsible for sending power to the correct washer part at the proper time for the proper amount of time. The Centennial washer’s control also receives and interprets information sent from various washer sensors, like the tub sensor, valve thermostat, and lid latch. The Centennial washer’s control also stores information that you can use to troubleshoot your washer’s problem! Fault codes related to the washer’s control are Error F1 E1, Error F2 E1, Error F2 E3, and really any other fault code if the part that the error is pointing at seems to be okay. Always attempt to reset the Centennial washer’s control before replacing it! Putting the Centennial washer through a quick diagnostics test may reset the control and solve your washers problem.

Centennial Pressure Sensor:

The pressure sensor is a switch that ties into the control and water valve to regulate how much water is in the tub. To do this, it uses a sealed hose that is attached to the bottom of the outer wash tub. As water enters the wash tub the pressure in this hose increases causing a diaphragm to flex, opening and closing the switch. This is a fairly reliable part and is rarely the cause of washer problems. Fault codes related to the washer’s pressure sensor are Error F3 E1 and Error F8 E3. The pressure sensor connects to the washer control at the J4 terminal. The main washer problem associated with a bad pressure switch or hose is an overflowing washer! The pressure switch hose is much more likely to cause an overflow problem that the Centennial washer’s pressure switch, so check the hose for holes and kinks before replacing the pressure switch!

Centennial Lid Lock:

The Centennial washer’s lid latch serves one main purpose, to keep your arms attached to your body. To accomplish this task it first senses if the lid is closed or open, and secondly locks the lid.
Note: The locking and unlocking function on the Maytag Centennial washer is fairly loud normally, but should not have a stuck, buzzing sound.
A properly functioning lock sounds something like this…

This washer does not have a tub break so the washer tub will coast to a stop from spin. This can take some time. The lid cannot be unlocked until the tub sensor tells the control that the washer tub has completely stopped spinning. Fault codes related to the lid latch are error code F5 E1, error code F5 E2, error code F5 E3, and error code F5 E4. The lid latch connects to the washer control at the J15 terminal. The main Centennial washer problem associated with a bad lid latch is the lid lock light flashing or the washer not starting. The washer’s lid latch also uses a magnetic strike that is attached to the lid for operation. If the magnet of the strike has swollen with rust it may be the cause of problems instead of the lid lock.

Centennial Pulley / Cam:

Because this washer is belt driven it uses a pulley to transfer power from the washer’s motor to the washer’s drive system. This washer type is one of several washers to use a shifter to shift between the washer and spin functions. When the shifter moves the cam into the up position the motor will drive the washer’s agitator or wash plate. When it is in the down position it will drive the inner wash tub for spin. The only fault code related to the pulley and cam is error code F7 E7. The most common Centennial washer problem that has been associated with the washer’s pulley and cam is the bolt that holds the pulley in place becoming loose and allowing the pulley to slip down causing grinding on it’s protective cover, creating a loud fast ticking sound.
A loose Centennial pulley sounds something like this…

Sound Description: Fast agitation function, slow agitation function, then spin function

To fix reinstall the bolt with lock tight to secure the bolt from loosening. If the Cam or pulley are damaged you may also need to replace the Cam assembly.

Centennial Motor/ Capacitor:

The washer motor does what you would expect, it drives the belt for washer tub and agitation functions. In addition the motor uses a starting capacitor that stores extra energy for a quick discharge to assist with the increased load associated with starting agitator and tub movement. Fault codes related to the washer’s motor and capacitor are error code F7 E7, and error code F7 E6. The main problem that can happen with the washer’s motor or capacitor is the washer filling but not washing or spinning.

Centennial Actuator/ Sensor:

The shifter and tub sensor are housed in one part on this washing machine. The shifter is responsible forraising and lowering the washer’s drive cam to engage and disengage the agitator for wash and the inner tub for spin.
Note: It is normal to hear a fairly loud click or pop when the Maytag Centennial washer is shifting between wash and spin functions.
While the tub sensor sensor shines invisible light through a perforated disk in the gearcase to sense tub movement. It then reports back to the washer’s control the tub’s movement status. Fault codes related to the washer’s actuator / sensor are error code F7 E1, error code F7 E5, and error code F7 E7. The most common problem with the Centennial washer’s actuator or sensor is the washer not shifting from agitate to spin or visa versa, and fault codes. This part is the most likely part to fail on the Centennial washers.

Centennial Water Valve:

The washer’s water valve controls water flow into the washing machine. It has one hot and one cold valve solenoid that the washer control can open and close to reach a target water temperature based on the information it receives from the valve’s built in thermostat. The washer’s valve is the most common cause for problems like water slowly leaking into the washer tub when it is off and poor water flow during fill. Fault codes related to the washer’s water valve are error code F8 E5, error code F8 E1, error code F3 E2, and error code F0 E4. The most common problems with the washer’s water valve is slow or no fill or water slowly leaking into the tub when the washer is off.

Centennial Drain Pump:

The Centennial washer’s drain pump spins a small internal paddle that propels the water out of the washer into your home drain. small items like coins and socks are fairly common to cause your washer to not drain properly. The only fault code related to the washer’s drain pump is error code F9 E1. The most common problem with the Centennial washer’s drain pump is not draining or slow to drain. Most Centennial washer drain problems can often be fixed by clearing coins or other blockages from the drain pump or pump intake, under the inner tub.

Centennial Wash Tub:

The washer tub is obviously designed to contain your clothes and the wash water. Not many problems occur with these washer parts apart from damage that may cause a leak. A washer that is not draining may need to have the inner wash tub removed to be able to access and clean a screen cap protecting the drain pump intake.

Centennial Gearcase:

The Maytag Centennial washer’s gearcase transfers the energy from the motor through the belt and pulley to the drive shaft for agitation and spinning. There are two main types of gearcase transmissions for this washer type. One with a long drives shaft for an agitator, and one with a short one for models that use a wash plate instead of agitator. The main problem that happens with this part is an even, rough grinding noise during spin. This is caused when the center seal leaks, allowing water to reach the spin bearings creating a loud noise during spin. Error codes related to this part are error code F7 E7 in extreme case, but usually just a lot of noise. Another cause for noise in spin is the drive pulley becoming loose and dragging against the pulley and belt cover!

Centennial Suspension:

The Centennial washer’s suspension rods are in charge of balancing the wash tub during spin. It is fairly normal for a washer to go out of balance with one large heavy item in the wash, like a pillow or blanket. However, if the washer regularly has balance problems even with all like items the the suspension springs may need to be replaced. The fault code related to the suspension system is error F0 E5

There are a few common problems with the Maytag Centennial washer…

Washer Drive Pulley Problems:

In most cases the washer will basically work normally except for a horrible noise when the washer is washing or spinning. The washer’s drive pulley can become loose and slip down causing a loud, fast ticking sound whenever the motor is running. In extreme cases the washer’s belt and/or motor pulley can be damaged as a result. If you catch it early, simply add some thread lock onto the pulley nut and tighten it back on.

A loose pulley sounds something like this…

Sound Description: Fast agitation function, slow agitation function, then spin function

Washer Actuator and Tub Sensor Problems:

This washer sensor problem usually will show up in the form of a fault code like F7E1, F7E5, or F7E7. and the washer will not start or run properly.

Washer lid lock Problems:

The lid latch has been a sore spot on this washer type. Most often washer lid latch problems result in the washer not starting or a fault code such as F5E1, F5E2, or F5E3. The washer’s lid strike attached to the lid can also swell with rust and not properly operate the lock.

Centennial Washer Balance Problems:

The Maytag Centennial washer’s tub is suspended on 4 suspension rods located on the outer corners of the washer’s tub. The spring portion of these tub suspension rods have been known to become soft and allow the tub to bounce, leading to the washer regularly going off balance and banging the inside of the washer during spin. To check the washer’s suspension, press down quickly on each side of the washer’s drum. The Centennial washer’s drum should quickly jump back to it’s original position and stop when released and not bounce. If the washtub bounces or feels particularly soft you may need to replace the suspension kit.

Washer Gearcase Problems:

Not as common as some other washer issues, but much more costly is a bad center bearing. Loud, even, grinding with tub movement are commonly caused by a bad bearing that is inside the gearcase. It is not a terribly difficult repair but the part required is costly. If you are experiencing a noise like I described always check for a loose drive pulley before assuming its the gearcase causing the noise.